Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer. Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a moron? Ive tried everything.
Causes of snipe:
I mounted my planer on a table and added infeed/outfeed rollers, seems to help somewhat. Greasing the pillars on the head seems to reduce head tilt a little. Other than that, you'll have to experiment and see what works for you.
It means that either the board or the carriage (the part with the cutter head and rollers) shifts too much when only one roller is in contact with the work. It can be caused by a number of things, including the tables being too low, or tilting down away from the cutter head.
What kind of planer do you have? Does it have a carriage or cutter head lock, and if so, do you notice any difference when using it?
You can reduce the effect of table adjustments by using an auxiliary bed, easily made from a piece of melamine.
Jim
Snipe is a "cost of doing business", plane your boards first then cut to length.
Everything?
Can you reduce the downward pressure exerted by the feed rollers?
How old is this unknown planer?
John
UTRECHT wrote:
I'd disagree with that. (Unless you own a "sniper" planer; OR don't know how to prevent snipe by adjustment and feed techniques). One of the easiest way to prevent snipe is feed one boards in sequentially, but overlapping a bit so that the planer sees a continuous length of boards. The only part that could have snipe would be the leading end of the first board and the trailing end of the last board. As long as the boards are less than 1/2 the width of the planer that's an option.
I just don't believe that it is a "cost of doing business".
dave
Rumpty wrote:
I agree with you that is another great way of preventing snip Dave.
I agree with Rumpty, price of doing business. Unless you spend countless hours on set up every time. If your using a portable planer there are a few tricks to try. I have a planer sled that I have had success with for some pieces but that only works once in a while. Rest of the time I know I have "X" amount of waste in any job and don't fret about it. Lifes to short to nit-pic some waste.
EJ
Try over sizing your stock in length. Makes all the snipe go away.
UA100
Thanks for telling me it ain't something I can control on my Delta 13" portable which has always sniped the hell out of stuff right out of the box and no relief after agonizing hours of fooling with leveling screws on the cheap stamped metal tables. That in spite of the big selling feature about locking head mechanism.
Not one to give up easily though, so when time permits I'll follow the instructions for the outfeed roller adjustment. They want a BIG piece of hardwood and I'll have to check the woodpile for a piece that will give me a
4"x4" chunk to machine to their specs and I'll go from there.
I have that planer and rarely see any snipe. When I do, it is because I did not support a piece as it exits. What length boards are you putting through? The loner ones are in need of support. When I do some short ones (say 18" or less), I have never seen any snipe.
It is still good practice to oversize the boards and leave some to trim off the ends. Easy to say, but when you have a 20" hunk of wood and need two 9
1/2 inchers, there is little room for error. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net
Ed, have you tried laying longer pieces of scrap on each side of your short workpiece and running the three through together? By the time the scrap gets sniped, the good piece is safely through the cutters. Ripped-down $3 tubafors are perfect for it, and darned cheap insurance.
Michael
On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:33:14 -0600, Unisaw A100 scribbled:
Yabbut then we get yet another thread on what to do with scraps.
Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
The planer is the Dewalt. I had a long board and like an idiot I cut it into numerous 12" lenghths instead of planing the whole board first. I think the continuous feed idea will fix the problem this time, but I wish I could get the thing adjusted properly. I tried it but made it worse. The tables angle up slightly so if the outer tips are in the same plane with each other and the same plane with the planer base, there is a slight drop off between the base and tables. Because of the slight upward slope of the tables, if I put a straightedge across them, the straightedge doesnt touch the base unless I apply pressure downward which flexes the tables down slightly. Am I supposed to raise the tables enough so that they are in the same plane where the tabls and base meet? Because if so, then the outer edge of the tables will be higher than the base because they slope upward (I hope Im describing this correctly). Thanks guys.
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>"
I've often run pieces butted end to end, but never thought about the scrap idea. I'll have to give it a try. Ed
Or butt up and run pieces of scrape in front and behind the good wood
John
Piss on them and chuck them in the garden compost.
UA100
Bbut, if your diet is high in vegetable oils will it cause spontaneous combustion? If you have sawdust in the compost will it cause a dust explosion? Enquiring minds you know...
And, and, what if there is Yew in the scrap heap - will it smell "pee yew"?
time to go methinks
Drive a rod into the ground so the compost is grounded and run a bare copper wire around it. . Just don't pee on the grounding wire during a lightening storm or it could hurt.
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