A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e 6&pX53 ) and it seems he gets
snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said it
doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought maybe
someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more expensive )
What Leon said. It's amazingly effective. Also, make your final pass a light
one. (Less pressure on the feed rollers = less likelihood of the carriage to
rack when the infeed roller is suddenly hanging in space.)
Isnt there a handle on the right hand side? This is the cutter head lock.
Tighten it up before turning on the power (after you have done the height
setup). If there isnt one, adjust the height of the infeed and/or out
Some things I've come to believe over the years about snipe:
1. There isn't a planer made that won't snipe.
2. The head lock makes no difference, unless its a really shitty
machine. Neither does the height/length of the in/outfeed tables.
3. The snipe distance is always equal to the distance from the center
of the cutter head to the center of the (first) outfeed roller, or
perhaps a bit beyond.
4. The theory is that as the wood contacts the knives, the knives
lift it. This continues until the wood passes under the outfeed
5. In any given stack of boards being planed, the depth of snipe will
vary, sometimes from zero to perhaps 1/32".
I think this has to do with grain structure and rigidity of the
6. If you cut a piece to final length and then plane it, murphy's law
will get you every time.
7. Cutting off the snipe as you cut your pieces to final length is
just a cost of doing business. In most cases it only amounts to
pennies and isnt worth the headache of trying to avoid snipe.
Fire When Ready
You can also get snipe in the middle of a board - if, for any
reason, the feed rate changes. - say because you've got hard
rubber feed rollers that are "glazed". Can also happen on
first pass of rough sawn board - with thinner end of tape
going in first.
And the solution to "going in" and "coming out" snipe is to
flift the board slightly 'til it contacts the cutter on the
way in and on the outfeed side, lift the board slightly
as gets close to leaving the cutter head.
put a sacrificial piece of wood on either side of your
precious wood and have them extend in front of the
For thinner stock planed on a "sled", put stops front
and back such that the stock is flexed up slightly.
just more to think about
Is that truly snipe, or burn marks from the rollers? For snipe to be
cut in the center of a board, the cutter head has to move down, or the
board has to move up. Otherwise, once the wood is cut, the blades
can't reach it.
Very long and heavy boards _can_ flex if they are dropped and force
the wood in the center of a lunchbox planer up into the knives. simple
roller stands and operator care can easily prevent center snipe.
Am I missing something else?
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