What's the best system for making face frames. Mikey
- posted
19 years ago
What's the best system for making face frames. Mikey
Pocket Holes in my opinion. I have a review of the Kreg system on my site if interested.
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Dean Bielanowski Editor, Online Tool Reviews
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Pocket Screws hands down. Have not used a dowel since getting the Kreg jig. You won't regret it!!!
I've never used dowels, but it's hard to imagine them being any easier/faster to use than pocket screws.
todd
Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
You MUST clamp any material prior to driving screws.
Kreg sells the proper face frame clamp designed for this purpose.
You can "sneak" one in on occasion but power driving a pocket hole screw will result in movement unless the material is clamped.
Mark wrote:
It's called a clamp. There was a nice shiny one in the kit I bought. Slippage problem solved.
todd
Did your pocket hole kit not come with a clamp and instructions?
Barry
I bought the Kreg Pro Pack. Love it! I may never use my buscuit joiner again! Greg
I've been partial to the Kreg pocket hole system; but have been working on a locking lap joint that I like even better. I cut the first one today. It's still a bit rough; but you can see it at
Hi, Rick.
You mean the cabinet bottom, or what are you keeping lined up with the biscuits? I've been looking for an excuse (er, I mean 'reason') to buy a biscuit cutter, y'see.
Dave Hinz
Clearly the mass of opinion favors pocket screws, and I agree that they are great provided: 1) you don't care about the ugly holes they leave, which is generally true for face frames and 2) you accept the fact that occasionally a screw will split the second member of the joint (no pilot hole is drilled).
Jay Knepper
Yes, fact is it came with two clamps.
Sometimes things can't be clamped.
3) You don't subscribe to the view that fine woodworking doesn't include metal fasteners of any kind.
I've got a few doweling jigs, including two old Stanley #59s (IIRC), and I like them.
|In article , | snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net says... |> Clearly the mass of opinion favors pocket screws, and I agree that they are |> great provided: |> 1) you don't care about the ugly holes they leave, which is generally |> true for face frames and |> 2) you accept the fact that occasionally a screw will split the second |> member of the joint (no pilot hole is drilled). |> |3) You don't subscribe to the view that fine woodworking doesn't |include metal fasteners of any kind.
Sorry, I can't help myself.[g]
On several of my projects, I've used screws to fasten the tabletop to the carcase. What should I have done instead?
Anything can be clamped.
Like what?
I've found that some things are difficult to clamp, but I've never seen something that CAN'T be clamped.
Maybe we can suggest a method for the oddball situations?
Barry
I was out to the shop this morning to try out a new clamping strategy for these things. Time to ready workpiece: 11 seconds; time to cut a single joint in a 1x4: 39 seconds. I'm working to reduce the cutting time and think I'll be able to shrink it to 30 seconds or less per joint.
For all of that, speed isn't my primary goal. What I'm after is a really strong lap joint that requires no fasteners and can be assembled by unskilled people - and still be *perfectly* square every time.
An unlooked-for benefit is that the same joint can be used to splice boards end-to-end, which I don't think I'd care to try with pocket hole joinery...
I confess that I've never timed myself at the Kreg jig, but I honestly don't think it's actually any faster when joint assembly time is figured in.
You're right, it has kept me off the street and (more or less) out of trouble for several days now (-:
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