Is there a min stock thickness that can be used for these? I'm thinking of
buying one of the cheap ones (Kreg rocket jig), but my stock is only 3/4"
for this project. Because the screw goes in at an angle I would think that
the limitation is the stock thickness?? (too thin and the screw would come
out the front??)
I can't say about the mnimum thickness as I haven't tried, but I've used
mine in stock as thin as 5/8" with the head buried and 1/2" with part of the
screw head sticking up past the surface by a 1/16" or so.
On the standard non adjustable jigs the screw exits the end/edge at the
center of a 3/4" think piece of wood.
Taking into mind that the screw is approximately 3/32 wide. If you wood is
1/2" thick you would be coming very close to having the screw exit on the
face vs. the edge of the board.
With that said however the screw would have to go into thicker material so
that the screw would not exit the face of the piece being joined.
The more adjustable jigs allow for you to keep the screw centered as it
exits the surface of the drilled board.
I use the Kreg screws for other uses and have screwed them in as close as
1/8" from the end/edge of a oak board with no splitting problem,.....
IF the grain near the end/edge is a bit strange or has a knot I have seen
some splitting but again, only if screwing near the edge.
Some of my pocket screws are Kreg sold. Most came from McFeeley's. I've
found that I need to crank down the torque to a lower, milder setting with
some of those, or they sink too deeply.
Or maybe it's the poor quality ply.
With a rare exception, I prefer the Kreg's over the McFeeleys. I don't know
why, I think mostly that the Kreg's have a better appearance. It has
however been several years since I used the McFeeleys pocket hole screws.
Rockler's multi-pack of Kreg Screws is comparable to Home Depots, who also
sales individual sizes in quantities of 1000 for $18 to about $24. However,
Lowes sales 100 packs for less than $4. Please don't flame my butt for
mentioning those kinda stores.
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
I don't know about the unit that you are looking at but the larger kits come
with a tapered drill which depth you set with a stop collar. The setting is
just slightly more shallow than the length of the chosen screw so that you
get the extra bite. I've not had a cabinet face split, a screw exit the
otherside nor have I had one separate using glue and screws. Ditto on the
choice of fine threads for hardwoods and coarse threads for softwoods.
I've got a question on that. I bought the K3 master kit but haven't used it
yet. On something like Oak or other hard woods, how far do you go through
the first piece of wood into the second, e.g.. stile into rail? Saw a video
once where the instructor drilled very shallowly through into the rail. It
looked like just enough for the screw to line up and start biting into the
rail. Does that sound right?
Same as Frank. I've always used the exact setup called for in Kreg's
directions - they tell you exactly how to set up the stop collar for various
size woods and the type of joint, and what size/type screws to use. Never
had a problem in any type or size wood, to date, and have never even
considered additional drilling steps.
Jim In FL
IME w/ maple, the jig only predrills the upper piece and that is perfectly
adequate. Kreg sells a special vice-grip type clamp with a big pad on one
jaw and a small pad on the other. It is included with some of their
Orient it with the big jaw on the show side of your face frame, and that
face will always come out flush, even if the stock isn't the exact same
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
No, in fact it is recommended to use a dime or nickel as a depth spacer
under the drill bit in the jig to correctly set the collar. Drilling into
the second piece simply weakens the strength of the joint as the screw will
have less to thread into.
So realistically, you could drill all your stiles at the same time without a
rail in sight then come alone with a rail, clamp the stiles to it one at a
time and drive in your screws. Does *that* sound right?
In theory, yes. In what little pocket joinery I've done, I think
there's a small advantage in having the hole penetrate the joined piece
_slightly_ as a guide -- it eliminates (or at least minimizes) the
desire of the piece to "walk" when there's a hole for the screw to bite
$0.02, ymmv, etc., ...
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