I would think you would be exactly right. Even if you could rig the
portable and set the stop collar improperly to get penetration, the
minor diameter of the step drill is a clearance diameter, larger than
the screw. so all you would accomplish is putting a clearance hole in
the second piece, reducing the amount of thread bite, and thinning out
the material below the counterbore. None of those are good things.
Absolutely correct. When screwing the fastener, the threads will grab a bit
in the upper piece before you get any traction on the lower piece. I the
will cause "jacking", the tendency for the the pieces to push apart. This is
why it is necessary to clamp your pieces while driving the screws.
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Well, yes, however, when making face frames it is normally the rails
that you drill the pocket holes in so that the end grain of the rails
are hidden by the stile. But you can do them all at once. I usually
set stops to cut everything first, lay it all out to make sure it
fits, then go back and do the pocket holes all at once.
A question about that. Wouldn't a screw hold better going from a pocket hole
in an end grain into side grain? Of course, it would depend on which stile
and rail you were working with. Rails are sandwiched between stiles on
either end, but the reverse is true in the middle of a face frame where the
stiles are sandwiched between rails.
And any full rails in the middle for drawers, doors, etc.
If you are talking about intermediate vertical dividers for drawers or
a door partition, yes always put the pocket holes in the piece where
the screw will exit the end grain into the side of the other piece.
Additionally, if your K3 master did not come with a 90 degree clamp
(3/8" dia rod on one end, flat plate on the other) you should get
one. very helpful.
Try it out, you'll like it I suspect.
The clamping system I use most of the time (when I can remember where I put
the special clamp):
I've got the plate inlaid in a good size piece of plywood, real handy (and
it's hard to misplace/hide)
I like that. Don't see any possible way to get any face misalignment
with that clamp. Course, in South Texas, something else to keep from
Now, if we can just do something about that memory. Which wall did I
hang that thing on......... :~) Know all about that memory thing.
(Not speaking for Frank, of course). You're right - in those cases I put
the pockets in the style. I never have gone into end grain with the screw.
I'm betting Frank was just referring to the outside part of the frame.
Jim In Fl.
wrote in message
I'm confused about which piece you're suggesting to put the pocket hole.
Isn't there a stronger joint where a pocket hole would be put in any end
grain piece butting up against a side grain? A screw tip would bite better
into side grain than pocket hole in side grain with screw biting into end
I believe you're just considering only simple cabinet doors (two rails, two
stiles) when you're talking about which piece has the pocket hole, and in
that regard I'd agree with you. But, what if you had a larger door with two
rails and three stiles? Then I'd be tempted to place the pocket holes in the
middle stile and screw it into the rail for the stronger joint.
I've had in my mind larger unit face frames like my entertainment centre
where there's a greater number of rails and stiles with some stiles butting
up against the middle of the rail. Then I believe it might be a little
different where you place the pocket hole. Am I explaining properly?
Drill the pocket holes in the ends of rails that go between two stiles, and
in the ends of intermediate stiles that go between two rails.
The end result of this is apparently what you are trying to describe above.
(Arrows are the ends where the pocket holes are drilled, and the direction
of the arrows is the direction the screw goes)
FWIW, this is pretty standard procedure as far as I know. I've literally
done hundreds of face frames, and do them all this way.
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