Some doors have brass WS, on the jam, that the door pinches against the
door jam. You need clearance for that.
If the door swells, it gets wider. Many doors are back beveled on the
latch side so that the door will close.
I would say if the door works with that dimension to stick with that
Push come to shove you can always build it wider and remove excess if
there are problems in the future.
What Leon said. And...
Having hung a few hundred slab doors into existing jambs or site built jamb
s, 1/4" is correct. First, if you are starting with a slab door blank of a
ny quality, it will have a bevel side and a hinge side. The hinge side wil
l be square and the bevel side (lock side) will have a 5 degree angle cut a
cross its thickness. The bevel allows the door to close even after some mo
vement as the "square edge" is gone.
Measure the width of the door from the square side to the wide side (which
it sounds like you have) and that side should be 1/4" smaller than the jamb
, the other side about 3/32" less than that.
When the butts are mortised perfectly flush, not high, not low, then they h
inges will space out 1/8" from the jamb, so 1/2 of your 1/4" allowance. Th
e remaining 1/8" will allow the same 1/8" reveal on the lock side, so your
1/4" gives you a perfect 1/8" reveal all the way up and down the sides.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.