I am looking into getting a box joint jig and found this one out there:
Any opinions?
Thanks, ray
-------------------------------------- Depends on what you want to do.
For true box joints, I'd build dedicated sleds for each size, 1/4",
1/2", 3/4".If you want to pursue the added functions the device suggests, that's another matter.
Lew
I still have the original. I used it to make box joints with fair success, but the half blind dovetails were a fiasco. I did find it handy for repositioning my table saw rip fence. I could put the jig against the fence, mark the jig setting, and remove the sliding part to get it out of the way. Then I could move the fence and later return it exactly where it was before.
But in general, it got very little use. I don't think I've used it in the last 2 years.
My favorite Incra product is the V120 miter gauge:
I find all the Incra stuff to be generally over engineered but also generally works well. Haven't used this but looks like the same story. I just bought the Rockler version but haven't used it yet. Simpler concept but about the same price.
So in other words, I have no real data but you did ask for opinions.
For the price the original Incra is a handy thing. I've used it on the router table, the table saw, the radial saw and the drill press that I can remember. If all you want is box joints though, one of the many shop-made box joint jigs out there works fine if you have a few scraps laying around to make it from.
Note--using the Incra templates to make box joints, you want to use a dado blade, not a router table. Why? Router bits tend to not be exactly on diameter--making Incra box joints with them they end up either too tight or too loose. A dado blade can be shimmed to give you the exact dimension you want. On a table saw you'll want to use a sled--just mount the Incra to the sled. On a radial saw you can just clamp it down to the table.
Well, to tell you the truth, I would like to also make dovetail joints, too. I have only made them using a handsaw but I have a home project where I need to make a number of joints and there was no way I was going to cut all of them by hand. Well, I could but I want to get done before I am 100 years old as I tend to do things slowly since I only putz around and I am not making a living off this. I would rather have dovetail joints but figured box joints would be faster and, since I don't have any jigs, I thought a pre-fabricated box joint jig would be the cheapest way to g.
Whenever I spied this jig, I liked the fact that you could use it for a ton of different things and not only for box joints and/or dovetails. I just wanted to see if anybody has any opinions about it. Your post verified what I had hoped: That this jig really can be (and is) used on multiple machines.
I think you are right about using a table saw. From other things I have read, the joints are REALLY tight and only certain bits work well, like Whiteside. That's okay, I guess, but I most certainly will use the sled option with a dado blade on my table saw whenever I make box joints--thanks for the suggestion!
ray
It's on sale now at Rockler (and Amazon) for ~$50. How durable & strong is it?
Don't you guys use your digital angle gauge to set the miter gauge to the fence within 1/100th of a degree?
I've dropped mine once or twice from the saw top to a wooden floor. No damage. From 6' on to concrete might be different :-). IOW, it's as strong as it needs to be if not abused.
Mine works great. We sold a lot of them when I worked at Woodcraft and I only had one customer complain he couldn't get his zeroed. I'm pretty sure it was his saw and not the miter gauge, but just thought I'd mention it to be fair.
You can buy it with a fancy fence for more money or you can make replaceable fences like I do. I fasten a T-track to the top of a piece of 3/4" plywood.
Yeah sure we do but, then you have to put your hand on the power switch and the angle changes about 0.23 degrees...just a minute!
Don't you guys use your digital angle gauge to set the miter gauge to the fence within 1/100th of a degree?
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