Contrary to the idiocy often evidence by DEQ's, it
takes quite a spill to contaminate groundwater.
BTW, got to start using those terms correctly. You
can't contaminate the water table. That's like
"spilling coffee on the inches." Water table is
just an elevation. What gets contaminated in
ground water or "aquifer" if you prefer. There's
another common mistake "ground water aquifer"
because ground water and aquifer mean the same
thing. Oops, guess the old editor job just
Isn't the aquifer rather the structure in the ground that contains the
ground water than the water itself? The word certainly means that (it
would be something like "water carrier").
Technically, you are correct. But you can't have
groundwater without an aquifer and you can't have
an aquifer without groundwater. So ground water
aquifer is still redundant. In common usage,
aquifer is used interchangeably with ground water.
But stupidities abound as I saw in my dictionary.
They define aquifer spring. It should be quite
obvious that all springs are simply groundwater
coming to the surface. So springs necessarily
require an aquifer.
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 02:06:53 GMT, the opaque "George E. Cawthon"
OK, my water table is about 20' and my well is 26' deep.
How much oil it would take to contaminate the aquifer
containing my drinking water? Much less than one at
300' deep, I'm sure.
= Dain Bramaged...but having lots of fun! http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Works the same in logging. Soft spots logged in the winter when the
ground's frozen, high, sandy stuff with pine in the summer. When the
forest's really dense, an Iron Mule can't find a way to hit the ground for
the roots. The call it "low impact" logging.
Around here, ( a mountainous region and fairly near to the pacific ocean )
one of the biggest problems with logging is the soil erosion and subsequent
sedimention occuring in the the rivers and streams...( salmon spawing
habitat--if you bury them eggs then the little fisheys don't got much of a
I use Poulan bar oil from Walmart. Its 30 weight with a tackifier (sp?) in
it so it sticks to the chain better than motor oil. Since it doesn't have
any of the additives needed to keep an engine clean, its cheaper than motor
Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it
stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty
quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a
hell of a mess.
Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's
about even, price-wise.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to
use more oil. Just means that the bar gets
hotter, unless you dial up the oil flow. 'Course
all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or
That isn't true either, standard brands of motor
oil are more expensive unless you find a really
And obviously if you dial up the oil flow, you use more oil.
Or just use bar & chain oil to start with....
In that case, what possible point is there in using motor oil? More expensive,
and you need more of it, equals "bad idea" from where I stand.
Then there's your suggestion of adding STP... making a more-expensive
alternative even *more* expensive. I'm having trouble understanding why anyone
would want to do that...
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Simple. You don't buy motor oil in preference to
bar oil. But if you have oil that otherwise you
wouldn't use (bad brand, high viscosity, low
quality/service rating; somebody gives you oil; or
you buy oil on sale for less than 50 cents a
quart, then use it instead of buying bar oil.
BTW, adding STP/Motor Honey will add less than 50
cents to a gallon of oil. And then, maybe
somebody will give you the Motor Honey.
On our old (craftsman) saw, the manual specified 30w motor oil... we gave it a
lot of use for about 6 years and only replaced the chain once..
On our new stihl, the dealer gave me 4 quarts of stihl chain saw oil at cost, if
I promised not to use motor oil later.. lol
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