Chainsaw bar oil (is motor oil ok in a pinch or does it ruin the chain)?

I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

Reply to
Ewald B?hm
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The main reason for 'chain saw oil' is it is biodegradeable.

Some saws recommend 30 weight motor oil.

I bought an electric pole chain saw a few months ago and it recoomends 30 wt. motor oil.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

That's unexpected!

Really?

Reply to
Ewald B?hm

SOME chain saw oil is biodegradable but far from all. The eco friendly oil is basically canola or some other vegetable oil. It is more expensive but it seems to work about the same without putting an oil slick on ponds and rivers when you are cutting trees there..

Reply to
gfretwell

I usually make sure oil is getting flung off to make sure it's flowing. Always used bar oil.

Greg

Reply to
gregz

The only real difference between motor oil and bar oil is the addition of ' tacky stuff' to help it stick to the chain...and yes, it does sling off. B ack in the day (and that was some 70 years ago) the professionals used moto r oil, most times used motor oil. Of course that was back when chain saws were all gear drive and the chain didn't move at warp speed.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

A couple decades ago, a friend of mine mentioned a neighbor who saved a lot of money by using used crank case motor oil in his chainsaw bar. However, he wore out bars and chains more rapidly, and that took all the fun out of it. As to new oil, I'm not sure.

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

The used oil is already worn out and also full of bits of metal. That equates to not much lube and lots of abrasive material.

Used oil of any kind should not be used with maybe the exception of some that is used for cooling such as out of a large transformer.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Oil change (hopefully) is done before the oil is worn out. And the filter removes the bits...but I would *stick* with bar oil too.

Reply to
bob_villa

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so the e xpense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick with bar/chai n oil.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Saw vendors generally recommend SAE30/20 for summer/winter as acceptable if specific bar oil isn't available.

I've used the old tractor oil (5W40 CF+) with an addition of about 1:4 to 1:6 STP or the like as a "sticky-ifier" for 20 yr or more. Seems just fine.

I do filter the oil through paper filter when storing and let set and decant the top for use to minimize any particulates.

I have (and do on occasion still) buy/use a commercial bar oil if happen to run across a buy, but when a tractor change (on 100-hr intervals on some) is 18 qt or more, seems a real waste for such low pressure usage to just toss it...

Reply to
dpb

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

Reply to
Ewald B?hm

I am amazed at the number of folks utilizing "used" motor oil. If used oil works, I'm sure the new stuff I was contemplating will work.

Reply to
Ewald B?hm

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as Harry , but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper than replacing worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp chain will run cooler , stretch less , and last longer in addition to cutting faster . If I touch rock or something I put that saw away until I have time to check it out - that's why all 3 saws go out with me when I'm cutting .

Reply to
Terry Coombs

A battery operated Dremel tool with the chain saw stone in it is a must if you go out in the woods with your saw. You can sharpen a chain that was in the sand in a couple minutes.

Reply to
gfretwell

Try reading the manual. Stihl recommends 10 to 30 wt. oil depending on the temperature if not using regular bar oil.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

I find it cheaper to just replace the chain, than to sharpen it myself. It costs about $25 to replace. About $30 to have sharpened.

Reply to
Ewald B?hm

Harbor Freight has an electric sharpener on sale for around $ 30 or $ 40 that you can shapren a chain within a few moments. The chains can be sharpened severl times.

While not heavy duty, it works fine for the average home owner.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

I would rather spend a few minutes with my Dremel than spend $25 and take the saw apart every time I cut a palm tree. Sometimes you may be sharpening twice on one tree.

Reply to
gfretwell

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the truck . Usually 3 but the other day I found I had 5 and used every one of them ( small stihl 192t to large Stihl 441. More just to give them some work than needing them.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

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