I need a little advice.
The open stand Delta 14" bandsaw that belonged to my father has a bad motor
on it. Not sure what happened in storage but it overheats in a hurry. It
sounds horrible too. Run it for about 30 seconds and you can smell the
motor insulation cooking. In that short period of time the motor case get
uncomfortably warm too. This occurs with the belt off and yes it spins
freely. The motor nameplate says: "HP - 1/2B" (????) Since this is a 1/2
horse motor maybe it is time to upgrade to a 1 horse. I see some Delta
band saws come with 1.5 hp motors. Should I go all out and get a 1.5 hp
motor or is that overkill?
I need new tires for the saw. Are the Delta tires the ones to get?
My father put a household light switch on the saw which really looks hokey.
Any recommendations for an suitable on-off switch? Should I order a new
one from Delta or is there something else that I can get that is better.
I see that there is a release lever version of that same 14" saw. Should I
get the parts to upgrade the beast? That spring loaded tensioner is a bear
to adjust everytime I go to change a blade.
I tried that and it didn't matter.
To be honest the motor that came with
the saw was never right. It was always noisy and now the noise is much
worse. The noise it makes almost sounds like a 3 phase motor running on 2
phases. The motor doesn't wind down when power is disconnected. I find
that quite odd. Most motors will coast for about 1/2 second or so. This
one just comes to halt. I think it has a shorted winding.
The saw is a 28-275 and the original switch was a toggle switch. I see
that Delta now ships the 28-275 with a 1 hp motor. Delta is quite proud
of their motors so I am going to go hunting for a cheaper alternative.
Any recommendations? Baldor? GE?
Maybe I should just throw a 1/2 hp motor at it, sell it and get the
enclosed base version and be done with it. By the time I get done adding
the good stuff to it, I probably could have just bought the better saw.
28-275 and the original switch was a toggle switch. I see
You HAVE a better saw. Not going to find its equal in the current crop of
14's. Although there are a host of things that could be wrong in the way of
motor/pulley/belt alignment that could do what you've described, it's also
easily possible that a motor stored for a long time could have had the
shellac spring from its windings.
You know it's a NEMA 56, but you also want to consider something else when
motor shopping. I got a 1 horse Baldor for mine, and the capacitor/switch
box was on the wrong side of the motor casing, preventing me from opening
the lower door fully. Had to swap ends on the motor.
Your choice as to motor quantity. 1.5 is at the upper limit, or perhaps past
it for single V-belt operation, and then there's the slip in the band and
tires. Wouldn't spend a lot of extra to go over 1HP. Tires from the same
source as the motor, most are the same item, based on description. Link
belt is a real nice option, since you'll need a new belt anyway.
Detensioner is something like that extra half horsepower. Don't need it if
you work the saw a lot, can manually detension if using it irregularly. You
can spend all kinds of money chasing perfection in guides, blades and dust
collection too. Use the saw and find out which you need and which you can
Oh yes, motor-rated contacts are put into standard-looking wall switch
packages. They're six-eight bucks versus 89 cents, but you just need
something to make/break, so unless you're offended by the aesthetics, a
switch is a switch.
Pierce, I would have to agree with George if the saw is an older model,
which being your father's, it sounds like. What would you guess the age
of the saw is? If you provide the serial number, we may be able to tell
you a manufacture date.
Your first stop should be to call Louis Iturra and ask for a catalog. He
sells upgrade parts galore for these 14" saws. (The catalog is also
chock-full of band saw recommendations, tidbits and whatnot.)
When you get the catalog, check out the polyurethane replacement tires
as well as the "supercharging" article.
Lastly, if it were my saw, I'd probably spring for the 1.5hp motor. My
Delta 14" (with riser block) has the 1hp motor and I've stalled it on
occasion when sawing green,10"+ thick 1/2 logs for bowl blanks.
If I could afford it, I'd get a Baldor or Leeson - and have had good
service from the Surplus Center in Nebraska:
I am needing a 3hp-5hp motor for a 50-year old band saw that I'm
rejuvenating. I'd love to hang a Baldor or Leeson on it, but the
$400-$500 (w/shipping) price is triggering some chest discomfort.
I've done some looking into the WEG brand the Surplus Center also
carries and they appear to have a good history and reputation. Made in
Brazil, company is 45+ years old, seem to be well-respected in the
mining industry... They're also heavier son-guns than the comparable
Leeson by about 15 lbs... Anyone have any comments on WEG motors?
Link to a 1.5hp WEG:
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 08:49:37 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
Delta switched from Marathon to WEG motors on the "domestic" units.
That is what comes on a Unisaw these days. While it is my opinion
that they are not as good as Marathon or Baldor, they test fairly
My Rockwell 14" BS has a 1/2HP motor and it resaws 6" hardwoods
without problems. Haven't resawn with a larger motor so can't
compare. I bought tires from Suffolk Machinery were my blades come
from. Presoaked in hot water 15 minutes then stretched them on the
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 06:53:41 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 06:53:41 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
Toggle switches were used for years. Held up well. Low cost.
Doesn't have that big off button that you can slap from afar if you
get in a bind, but functional.
Requires some fairly close tolereance machining on the overarm casting
to retrofit the quick release/preset blade tensioning system. You can
get the better spring, and a crank handle to make tensioning an easier
Be sure you get the right RPM motor, particularly if you go to the
1.5. When Delta changed to the 1.5 hp motor there were corresponding
pulley and guard changes because the output rpm changed. So if you
buy a 1.5 that would be for a recent model Delta, it would not work
without those changes. No matter the hp you want a 1725 output rpm.
Sounds exactly like a motor with a blown winding. You can take it to the
rewinders and have them check it out for a small fee, usually. Not worth
rewinding a small-ish motor I was told a couple of months back, due to the
price of copper[wire]. Unlike Leon I don't believe your switch has anything at
all to do with it. A scorched switch would not make your motor overheat rapidly
Rewinders often also sell 2nd hand motors that are in good nick; I got one for
the lathe while I was there.
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
It could be just a stuck centrifugal start switch. If it stays in start mode
it'll both make a weird noise and overheat quickly. It doesn't take much
surface rust on the shaft or gummed up grease to keep the switch from
moving. It's inside one end of the motor, so you have to open the case, but
it's a simple fix to free it up and get it working correctly again. Then, if
you haven't over cooked the winding you will have a good motor again. A bad
start capacitor can cause similar problems. They can go bad in storage. If
it has one, take it to the motor shop and buy a replacement. They usually
cost $3-8, so it's worth the gamble.
"Peter Huebner" < email@example.com> wrote in message
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