I'm not sure what they call it but I think it might be refered to as a bayonet fitting. It's a kind of push down and twist to lock fitting. I need to know how to go about cutting that L shape in the recieving piece of wood. I will be using brass rod as the latch/sticky out bit.
Any advice please?
TR
TR wrote: I'm not sure what they call it but I think it might be refered to as a bayonet fitting. It's a kind of push down and twist to lock fitting. I need to know how to go about cutting that L shape in the recieving piece of wood. I will be using brass rod as the latch/sticky out bit.
Any advice please?
Perhaps building/cutting the reciever in two pieces, carving out your bolt lock on one side, then some good glue? Tom
If I am picturing this correct, you could do that with a router with guide bushing and a jig. The jig can be flat faced for the base of the jig, and use a cutter bit long enough to reach as the fitting curves away.
Might this be a quick disconnect dust collector fitting?
--
******** Bill Pounds
You're looking for a Bayonet Neill Concelman connector, (sometimes erroneously called a British Naval Connector or Bayonet Nut Connector.
No, he is *NOT*. "BNC" is a very specific reference for a particular type of "nominal 50-ohm impedance Co-axial cable connector" for RF use -- where the connector 'innards' are impedance-matched to that type of transmission line. The 'quick-disconnect' feature is what distinguishes it from a "TNC" ("THREADED Neill Concelman") connector. "Bayonet" connections existed _long_ before Neill and Concelman developed their _constant-impedance_ connectors.
Including, _bayonets_ -- believe it or not! -- which were affixed to the muzzle-end of rifles with that push-twist-lock mechanism. All the way back to the 1670s
Many other things use 'bayonet' fittings. e.g. automotive tail-lights, and dome lights,. bulbs for some slide/filmstrip/movie projectors, panel lights on many kinds of instrumentation , photographic flashbulbs (remember those? :) etc., etc., ad nauseum. o
Bayonet fitting *is* the correct name.
Note: the cut-out is usually _J_ shaped. Push-turn-release, and the spring at the bottom of the hole pushes the thing up into the locked position. this way, it can't _rotate_ loose, and then come apart.
5-axis CNC milling machine?dentists drill?
Does anybody make a right-angle attachment for a Dremel Moto-Tool (or similar)?
Seriously, probably the easiest way it to take a piece of tubing of appropriate diameter, cut the J path in that from the _outside_, and then fit that already cut tube into a cylindrical cut-out in the main wooden piece, whatever it is. You can make the bottom of the hole _just_ big enough to hold the tubing, and drill it out larger where the 'pin' will bottom out at. then fit a 'ring' around the top of the tube, to hold it tightly in place. small cut-outs in the inside of the ring, to let the pin(s) pass.
Trying to cut the slot _inside_ the hole, is *really* awkward unless you're using a _big_ diameter piece.
Yeah, the 5-axis CNC ought to do it. I saw some really cool things done in 2" abs pipe with a CNC 4th axis ie rotation. see
I should really mention at this point that hole is only 1" across. So I might take woodworker88's advice. It's my little cherry dice cups/carriers with brass trim. So I might use a brass tube on the inside. Anyone know of a good adhesive for sticking metal to wood?
TR
You could use a metal (brass?) tube for the inside fitting. Make the J-shaped slots in it, and test in on the male piece.
Then glue it into the recessed hole. A chisel can cut out the wood that gets in the way.
The brass would be nearly invisible when assembled. Of course steel would be stronger.
Epoxy, if it will be subjected to a lot of stress, or if you need to fill gaps. Cyanoacrylate ("superglue") otherwise - that's how pen turners attach the brass pen tubes to wooden blanks.
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