Craftsman tablesaw (old)

The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.

I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade.

Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get?

Reply to
DJayhawk
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toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.

It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade.

When I had my craftsman I had a systematic on it. I know some people here like the Frued. I had too measure front and back with the craftsman fence to be sure it set square.

Mike M

Reply to
Mike M

toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.

slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade.

While this might be hard to swallow, I recommend something like a Forrest WWII regular kerf, 40 teeth.

Yes it is expensive, $100 plus a little but it will stay sharp for a very very long time and can be resharpened dozens of times. AND if you upgrade your saw it will most likely be transferable. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

Thanks Lew, that's useful information. I wonder when the use of "peak" horsepower became common?

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

---------------------------------------------------- "Peak" HP is a marketing gimmick that ONLY applies to some specific applications such as vacuum cleaners.

NEMA motors are truly specified according to design (Design B, Design C, Design D), which defines the torque vs: RPM of the motor and true output HP for the real world.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.

really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade.

There's a place near me that has a boatload of Freud - LM72R010X that they are unloading for $25 each. You could pay shipping and still have it for 1/2 of what other places are selling it. It's a heavy duty full kerf blade.

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371-2220

Reply to
-MIKE-

My Sears motor has a part number of 113.12170. It is 115 volts 60 cycles and runs at 3450 rpms. It is a capacitor start type motor and requires a 20 amp circuit.

If you are luck it will run on 15 amps, but will run slow.

I have one 20 amp circuit in the garage of my 4 year old home and that is in the ceiling. I want to put several more 20 amp circuits into the garage but then we got obamainated. On my last house I had to add 20 amp circuits to the garage and that house was 40 years old.

OP make sure you are using the saw on the proper circuit.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.

slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade.

When you say true, does that mean the to the slot/(table top or what ever you are using as a reference) and blade are absolutely parallel? or is the blade parallel to the fence?

One thing I just thought of if the saw has been use a lot, how are the bearings on the blade spindle. If they are worn that could cause binding and slow the saw down.

You asked about the belt, if it is going bad and causing problems I would think that those problems were that it is about to break not slow the saw down.

If the belt is to tight that could cause the bearing to bind on both the blade an in the motor causing the saw to run slow.

We have been talking about alignment, is the motor aligned with the pulley on the saw blade.

The fact that the blade is 90 degrees to the table should have nothing to do with binding.

Reply to
knuttle

I'll vouch for that blade

Reply to
Zz Yzx

What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance?

Reply to
DJayhawk

started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance?

The threads on my arbor do not extend far enough out to allow me to use a stabilizer on the arbor side of the blade. I use one on the other side.

Definitely use them if you can, especially with a thin-kerf blade.

Reply to
Zz Yzx

That may be all it *applies* to, but it's used on just about everything. Looked at router horsepower claims lately? Or any power tool from Sears?

I notice that Lowes is advertising a couple of Steel City "1.5HP" table saws on their website. When you check the specs, the amps are shown as "0.0". Guess that's one way of obfuscating the facts :-).

On a more hopeful note, I see a lot of products are now just stating amps

- no horsepower rating.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

They're a definite help on thin kerf blades. Opinions differ on their utility of a full kerf blade, but they can't hurt. One thing I do is mark mine so I always install them in the same position relative to each other. That might be overkill, but then again it can't hurt.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I've used them on thin kerf blade and they do help. However, it's all irrelevant when your saw isn't properly set-up. The thin kerf blade with stabilizers will still flex some when the stock is binding, putting pressure against the side of the blade.

Reply to
-MIKE-

...

...

That's a part of the story; there's much more going on besides-- :)

The difference between the magnetic steels used/available, air gap, etc., etc., all effect the overall efficiency and hence the power output per unit input is variable w/ generally older motors not being as efficient.

I-sqR losses may go down w/ the larger diameter if used, but that's counteracted by longer length so isn't as large a win as just the area factor alone as well as changing the field saturation...

All in all, it's tough to make generalizations other than often the advantage in the older motors is that cost constraints weren't nearly as big a deal then so they had motors which rated better than those on more recent equipment where price point became so much a competitive issue.

The torque effect noted above is a valid one on the older larger physical rotor designs -- I have a WWII era hybrid Walker-Turner Rockwell 3/4" spindle shaper w/ the original motor that is physically as large as more recent 5 hp motors. It's mass is helpful for tough jobs and noticeable in comparison w/ the PM Model 27 of roughly mid-80s vintage and same (3) hp rating. I'd have to go to the shop to look up comparative LRA and FLA but I'm sure the old Rockwell is fair much higher draw than the newer PM.

--

Reply to
dpb

started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance?

When I had my Craftsman saw I had some Craftsman stabilizers on it and they made it worse, but they likely were'nt true and created distortion in the thin kerf blade.

Mike M

Reply to
Mike M

started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance?

Blade stabilizers are a remedy for a blade with inherent deficiencies, namely thin kerf blades. Put stabilizer money towards a good regular kerf blade.

Reply to
Leon

ripping 3/4" plywood.

much of a factor or could there be other issues?

is a new Black and Decker Pirranah.

Yesterday I was ripping a piece of 1X2, and realize there is something I do that does effect performance,

Most of the time I want very finished cuts for the type of work I am doing. To decrease the angle the teeth that the are hitting the face of the board, I adjust the height of the blade so it is about a half to three quarter inch above the board. This lower angle adds cutting teeth to the cutting length. ie as you lower the blade from full height, the angle of the blade in the wood goes from nearly vertical to nearly horizontal.

However with hard woods the greater cut length also adds to the load on the saw. If you are using a low blade height you can reduce the load by raising the blade to reduce the cut length in the wood.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

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