Old craftsman tablesaw question

Greetings!

I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool reseller.

Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from the late 50's / early 60's.

Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending around $200-$250 for it.

Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.

Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.

thanks again.

Rob

Reply to
Rob McConachie
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As a stopgap it should do. Actually, we see the 70's versions of the Craftsman cast iron saws in the local ads for $150 or so on a regular basis.

In the $200-$250 range you might pick up a used Delta with a little more power which would be my recommendation.

I owned a 70's Craftsman for several years. Wouldn't buy another. But then I wouldn't spend the extra bucks for a sawstop. I am very happy with my Grizzly 1023S.

RonB

Reply to
RonB

Make sure it's 10 or 12". There are a decent number of 9" saws out there. 9" blades are available, but you'll have to special order them, so forget about deals.

Look carefully at the fence and locking mechanism. A decent replacement fence can cost $2-300, so pay attention to what's there.

As Ron mentioned, you can probably get an old Delta, and I'll add a mid-90's Jet for a similar price, so look carefully.

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Reply to
B A R R Y

I didnt know if the mid-90's tools were of good quality.

I have heard that older tools (50's-60's) were the end of the "quality" tool.

I would perfer a delta over a craftsman but i have yet to find one. The other choice I am considering is to rip on my 18" bandsaw and then edge the boards with a plane. But, currently, I am lacking that essential skill (and a plane to do it with).

Reply to
Rob McConachie

I bought an early 50s Craftsman over 30 years ago for $100.

The fence is bolted together, and these bolts work loose. If I don't pay attention to them, I get kickback. Kickback will get your attention. I suspect every Craftsman made deserves a new fence.

The rest of the saw works quite well. Of course, a prior owner removed and discarded the blade guard, and that is a bummer.

Mine has a repulsion start induction run motor. I had it refurbished a few years ago. It needed new brushes and bearings. Emerson Electric discontinued making this type of motor in 1953; the saw must be older than that.

All this shows that even a second line saw (such as a Craftsman) will last a very long time.

Jim

Reply to
Jim

Go to my webpage for an article about Craftsman saws of about that vintage. I had one for ten or fifteen years, and can speak fairly definitively about it.

It can be an 'okay' saw. It needs some upgrades to get to that point, and it's a compromise every step of the way.

Reply to
LRod

The Jets and Delta contractor saws are. Even recent Jet and Delta contractor's saws are plenty usable for very fine work. I had a GREAT

1997 Jet 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw. A nick of tuning, and possibly a link belt and/or some tube sand on the legs and the saw will be more accurate than you are.

You may have been slightly misled.

You're not talking big 'urn, but a contractor's saw. Some of that is also nostalgia. My cabinet saw is *gasp* a 2002 General!

That'll work! I know a woodworking instructor who does exactly that. His home "almost neader" shop has exactly one power tool, a band saw.

Of course, the first time you want to whip out some plywood or MDF repetitive cabinet parts, or long strips of moldings, you'll want a table saw.

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Reply to
B A R R Y

heh, I knew there was a "real" reason for a tablesaw... cabinets.

thanks.

Rob

Reply to
Rob McConachie

Now *that* *was* informative...

That appears to be the same model that I was looking at. Since it is a tool reseller, I expect the price to be a little higher than "garage sale" prices.

But, you have valid points. Also, when I went to woodcraft the other day, they were suggesting that I look at Steel City saws. Intersting but not quite enough to sway me.

I still would like a unisaw or a pm66. our local craigslist has a pm66 for $1k. I might investigate that a little further.

However, the Ridgid TS3650 also intrigues me...

thoughts? opinions? suggestions?

Reply to
Rob McConachie

the older and the heavier the better if you're looking for an inexpensive machine.

Reply to
bridgerfafc

About 10 years ago, I bought a mid-70's full size Craftsman table saw for $100. It's the same saw as shown in the first picture here:

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it needed was a new belt, a blade and a little cleanup. I still feel it was the best $100 I ever spent on a tool. Of course, I spent another $50 on a rolling base kit...

Oh yeah, I moved the switch to the left front of the table so it was easy/safer to reach.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I've got one that I inherited from my paternal grandfather. The fence was replaced with a biesemeyer home version and I'm happy with it.

I wouldn't pay more than about $100 for one unless it had a good blade and had been outfitted with a good aftermarket fence. As indicated earlier the fences on these saws are not very good.

=========================================================================== Chris

Reply to
Chris Dubea

Around Detroit these saws can be had for ~$150, sometimes less.

Reply to
BillinDetroit

{snip}

Taking you at your word that this is just a stop-gap, and not long term.....

A Craftsman might just be what you want, if the price is right. Other replies have addressed that issue.

But, beware... under the table, the trunnion bolts fit into threaded holes which for some models soft iron threaded holes. The threaded holes could be damaged, or torqued too tight for you to loosen for adjustment. Be sure that all six trunnion bolts are there, and can be loosened and re-torqued. If you cannot adjust the blade to be square with the miter gage slot, and have it hold it's alignment, then why bother as that saw is toast?

Also, don't forget to check for the arbor bearing for noise. Is it a couple of sealed pressed fit bearings that might be replaced, or a brass sleeve bearing all wore out by saw dust which cannot be replaced?

Also, try to stay away from the direct drive TS from craftsman. IMHO, the motor on the rear with a belt pulley models are a better saw.

If so equipped, inspect the stamped metal legs of the base, and the retractable wheels and fixed feet for any damage. Sometimes the cheap stamped metal legs get a bend in them from use which makes base unuseable.

Best of luck until you get the saw of your dreams.

Phil

Reply to
Phil-In-Mich.

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