Can I save money on a shed if I build it?

Where did you order the plans from? Which plan?

Reply to
jm
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I bought a shed a number of years ago for $1400. It's a 10'x12' aluminum skinned, 2x4 walls & rafters, t&g pt floors, 2x8 foundation, a couple of windows, pre-wired, and a 48" door. It's made by Robin's Sheds. Best one I've looked at. Comes with a 20 year warranty. It's half way there now and still in excellent shape. Completely waterproof and has survived a hurricane (cat 1) and several tropical storms here in FL. I'd be hard pressed to make one for significantly less at the same quality. I figure my time is worth something too.

The best advice I can give about a shed is calculate what size you want, then add at least another 50%!!! By the time I get my riding mower, generator, bikes, and camping equipment in there, that sucker is full. No, I didn't have all that crap when I bought it... which is why I suggest buying/building a bigger shed than you currently need. :-)

Reply to
Robert

The answer jm is that he said he designed it. You don't need plans for a simple shed, all you have to do is know standard construction, and you get that from looking a books that explain construction. E.g., buildings are designed around 4 foot increments (or 2 foot increments) so that everything works together. Studs, rafter, joists on 18 inch centers (or 24 inch centers). Base plates, top plates, frames around windows and doors, etc. Roofs are simple, the only problem is deciding what you want. More problem than its worth but certainly simple is to just construct roof trusses instead of using rafters.

Remember, it is only a shed so let yourself go; use plywood such as T11 and forget standard framing construction and let the plywood be the major structural member with reinforcements and triangles where necessary to provide strength and rigidity. For sizes of 10 by 10 and larger, though, you should consider 2 x 4 studs.

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

uh, shouldn't that be 16 inch centers?

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

There is no need for temporary support of the ridge, you just make it a permanent part of the gable. But the better way is to build the gable ends on the ground and then lift into place and nail them on the top plate, then nail up the ridge. And you don't need to cut rafters at the plate; just nail into plate and ceiling joist and extend far enough for an overhang. Then you fill in between each joist/rafter with a full sized 2x4.

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

But how much is the experience of doing the whole project yourself worth to you?

I waited until I was 46 to overhaul my first engine (100k+ miles later and still chugs along just fine) and 58 to do my first construction (the shed) and I wouldn't trade the experiences gained for anything. I knew only a little of house construction but there were lots of books available on the subject that helped me out. I drew the plans up on AutoCad to be very similar to the one it replaced that termites dined upon. I followed house construction guidelines for the most part, most of the best materials I could find, was careful, and it is one heck of a lot better built than the house it sits behind. Sure it took a couple of months off & on of planning, problem solving & building and I didn't feel too good when my son's friend came by & told me he & his dad built theirs (twice as big as the one I built) in a couple of weekends but I am very happy with the results. You can find some plans & shed building books at the borg and check your library as well. You can also try taking measurements off a shed you see that you like if you know the homeowners. Keep in mind it is only a shed. You can make mistakes there that are not all that costly to straighten out and don't forget, you will get a tremendous amount of advice from your neighbors...some of it good. It is a project that, when you are done, you will step back and say "Gee. I wish I had done that a little differently. Hmm. Maybe on the next one....." You can't find that in a kit.

Kiyu

Reply to
Kiyu

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