I think I want to take my chances and go with hardwood in the kitchen.
Yeah, it's not such a good idea...
What can I use to waterproof it?
Do I use something instead of poly or in addition to it?
On 21 Aug 2003 06:16:44 -0700, email@example.com (DB) wrote:
I love my wood floor in the kitchen. Suggestion: Small non-slip rug in
front of the sink. Not so much for water spills -- though that helps, I
suppose -- as for foot traffic. Enormous amount of wear and tear in a very
small space because you are not just walking by but pivoting constantly. I
also have a rug in front of the stove to catch flying grease. Just beware
that if you leave a rubber backed matt down too long it can imprint in the
floor. I don't understand this -- I just know because when I rented out my
house for a few years that is what i came back to.
Hello DB, I 1st refinished my oak floors 11 years ago w/Hydrocote Polyurethane
from Highland Hardware. I did my kitchen, dining room and living room. I
recoated them again last year with the same product. They have held up
beautifuly throughout all these years. Product is easy to apply and dries
fairly quickly so that multiple coats can be applied in 1 day. Highland
carries both a satin & a gloss in this product.
On 21 Aug 2003 14:14:21 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (VOODO96) wrote:
What prep did you do before the recaot last year? Also, did you use satin
or gloss, how many coats? I ask because I have been told that it can be
good to do base coats in gloss and then, if you want satin, to then do
satin as top coat. Thanks.
that's exactly what I did recently. 2 coats of gloss, followed by one
coat of VERY CAREFULLY applied semi-gloss. the Bonakemi semi-gloss has
the sheen I wanted. their satin would be too dull. Using 2 coats of
gloss preserved much of the beauty of the oak floor
That "VERY CAREFULLY" part is one that concerns me. If you miss a spot, it
will be painfully obvious. I was thinking 1 coat of gloss and then 2 of
the final sheen. VERY CAREFULLY is in my vocabulary but generally not in
my skills bank. I devote any that I have to my power tool use!
Poly should be very water resistant. You should probably finish in place
rather than use pre-finished so that you get the poly to seal between the
planks. Even then as gaps open up over time you'll get water between them.
I've read that for kitchens some folks actually seal the sides and back of
the wood with poly before it's installed. On the other hand, I have
friends who have oak in an open kitchen/dining/living space and just used
gym seal on top with no problems (yet). But, they don't have kids and
probably haven't spilled an excessive amount of water on that floor. I
also understand that quartersawn lumber may not expand as much across the
boards, which would be good for this application. Maybe check into that..
Many many kitchens have hardwood floors without problems. A rug at the sink
is always recommended and any spills should be wiped up immediately.
Most problems come from dishwasher and icemaker leaks. You can buy a pan to
go under the dishwasher with an outside drain. For the icemaker, hire a good
plumber. Even with moderate leaks discovered early, the hardwood will often
return close to normal with time.
For the surface, buy the best finish available. If you can't buy it, bribe
or hire a *real* hardwood floor shop to apply 3-4 coats depending on type
you decide. I always recommend an extra coat in high traffic areas. When you
start to see dirt in the grain, apply two more coats. This will extend the
life of the sand job indefinitely. Or use a good prefinished with an
aluminum oxide finish.
You might want to go over the floor with the big orbital sander from the
Borg, with the screen, to get up some dirt and make a good holding surface
for the new finish. I used water based poly and I'm surprised by its
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