You'll save more than that. My boys and I built a shed two years ago for $950
that would have cost us $1300 to buy from Lowe's, and have a better product.
Yep. And I got an added bonus in having my sons (age 13 and 10 at the time)
help me with it.
I used treated plywood for the floor. The kits use standard plywood, and
treated is available as an outrageously overpriced option.
I also hand-picked the 2x4s for studs and rafters. I'm sure I got much better
wood than I would have in a kit.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
You probably already have some idea as to the value of your time:
either you have more time or more money available.
A consideration would be what to do to make it durable - like caulking
and painting. A dozen tubes of caulk and a gallon of first-rate paint
($30) would go a long way.
On 21 Aug 2003 04:23:04 -0700, john_20_28 email@example.com (jm) wrote:
I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.
Do you think the price would have been the same for if you had it built
with the better quality of materials and custom design. Comparing apples to
apples I bet you came out farther ahead than the same price.
The answer jm is that he said he designed it. You don't
need plans for a simple shed, all you have to do is know
standard construction, and you get that from looking a books
that explain construction. E.g., buildings are designed
around 4 foot increments (or 2 foot increments) so that
everything works together. Studs, rafter, joists on 18 inch
centers (or 24 inch centers). Base plates, top plates,
frames around windows and doors, etc. Roofs are simple, the
only problem is deciding what you want. More problem than
its worth but certainly simple is to just construct roof
trusses instead of using rafters.
Remember, it is only a shed so let yourself go; use plywood
such as T11 and forget standard framing construction and let
the plywood be the major structural member with
reinforcements and triangles where necessary to provide
strength and rigidity. For sizes of 10 by 10 and larger,
though, you should consider 2 x 4 studs.
What plans and where did you get them? I have found plans that were good on
parts of the shed, but shady on other parts.
For example, I found one where the floor was well explained, but the roof,
which looked complicated to me (but it is an "ordinary" room the upside V
shape; sorry don't know what else to call it - gable?). I don't know how to
cut rafters. It looked hard. Maybe it is. I don't know, but I couldn't
tell what angle to cut them at or how the roof fit on the walls.
Framing the roof (even a simple gable roof) is a bit more complex
than building the walls and ensuring that they are plumb. The problem
is that this will probably be the only roof you ever frame, so the
learning curve is not very useful in the future.
Simple method - go measure an identical shed and replicate that
Less simple method - watch a professional crew frame a roof on a new
More complex method - purchase a book on roof framing such as "Roof
Framing" by Marshall Gross.
The method basically involves -
1. Install the ridge beam parallel to the centerline of the building
and elevated such that the roof pitch is at least 4/12 so it will
drain. It is temporarily supported at the proper height until the
common rafters are installed to support it from the tops of the walls.
2. Install ceiling joists to hold the tops of the walls in the plumb
3. Cut the common rafters at the proper angle to meet the ridge beam.
Cut the birdsmouth on the other end of the rafter such that it sits
flat on top of the wall with sufficient extension to allow for fascia
board (where guttering would be placed) to be at least 12-24" from the
outside of the walls.
4. Nail all common rafters in place. Remove temporary ridge beam
5. Install vertical studs in each gable (the triangular areas at each
end of the ridge beam) to support siding to cover these openings.
6. Place roof decking over common rafters beginning at the bottom.
7. Install felt, flashing and shingles or other roofing material.
You will need several 8' stepladders during some of these steps.
Borrow as needed and make sure they are 300# rated.
There is no need for temporary support of the ridge, you
just make it a permanent part of the gable. But the better
way is to build the gable ends on the ground and then lift
into place and nail them on the top plate, then nail up the
ridge. And you don't need to cut rafters at the plate; just
nail into plate and ceiling joist and extend far enough for
an overhang. Then you fill in between each joist/rafter
with a full sized 2x4.
my shed cost more than a pre built (Tuff Shed) but it looks WAY better,
and fits the limited area I had to place it in. It also is painted to
match the house, the roof is very similar to the roof of the house, and
I enjoyed building it from scratch, with all plans contained solely
within my head. I used something called Sturdifloor, IIRC for the
floor, which is super solid. I insulated the ceiling and the walls that
are in the sun. Since it is against a fence and near the house, a lot
of it is pretty much in the shade. In the middle of a hot summer day,
it's cooler in there than my house. oh, yeah, I also installed two
vents at the gable ends for cross ventilation. It has one window, a
metal Stanley door and enough headroom for my 6' 4" self to stand in. I
went at least $400 over predicted cost and mashed one fingernail.
Shortly after I finished, I then bought a framing nailer!
the exterior is tongue and groove exterior siding that I primed with
LOTS of Bin primer and then two coats of Kelly Moore Oyster semi gloss
exterior latex enamel. After 5 years the paint still looks great.
Oh, and rather than run electricity to the shed, I installed a solar
powered light for those after dark visits. Got that at HD for about $65
I went through this same problem a couple of years ago. I elected
to build because the local sheds (like TuffShed) were about
$1200 for the size I wanted and the materials for what I
wanted to build were about equal. However, my materials were WAY
better. Ceder siding, T&G ply flooring, etc. Also I had
some friends help which was fun and in the end, I also
justified some of the tools I bought to do the shed.
Would the shed gone up faster if I bought it from a
company? Yes, of course. Would it look better? Not
necessarily and I would have missed out on learning
a lot of carpentry. My time was not in the equation, since
I wrote it off as a learning experience.
I'd say, if you need it soon - buy it, but if you
want to learn and have fun learning - build it yourself!
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