Same here...either or...(older Unisawr though).. and I'm not so sure one has to pay a premium for locally made stuff. I guess it all depends on how much money the owners feel they need to make.
That is a big fella!!
Are sanders like this common in your industry?
I like the fact that it uses common sized sanding discs. I would hate to pay for a special sanding disc that size.
I have spoken to a couple of fabricators who use them. They are quite pleased. Many have bought an extra pad so they can do their change-ups quicker.
Theyre getting to be more common. The Australian company that makes it found a need and filled it.
That also makes similar patterns as the single 5" hand-held sanders, so there's a good 'blend'. Being an induction motor, the speed is constant as well. Some of the feed-back mentions pretty good dust collection as well. I'll do a review once it gets here.
r
I'm sorry... I really am. I know this is a serious tool. But on the other hand, I heard Nigel Tufnel saying (paraphrased) ,"you see right here, our amps go to eleven. And that's one more than ten, so it has to be louder".
It was the "it has four pads which make it four times faster" part that got me.
Robert
....ohhh, I see what you did there...
I believe that this particular saw with the 2hp motor is one of the newer type hybrid Table saws, My first clue was the smallish wheels for setting the bevel and height. Then I think I confirmed with the 2 hp motor that you also observed. The hybrid is typically more than a contractors saw and has some of the nice features of a typical cabinet saw. Typically the "standard" cabinet saw has at least 3 hp and runs on 220 volt or more. As far as the international series being up to par, that may or not be true, they may be better in some cases. The international series are Asian built IIRC and this may or may not be a plus.
That said, for a weekend woodworker this saw should be plenty. For many many years I used a Craftsman 1 hp saw with a quality blade. The key to getting the most out of your power is to use the best saw blade that you can afford. Regardless of what brand I strongly recommend the regular kerf vs. a thin kerf blade. While a thin kerf blade does in fact make you think that you have increased your hp, the trade off is that your cuts are "not always" as true as what a regular sized kerf blade will deliver. I used thin kerf and regular kerf on the 1 hp Craftsman and once I found a premium quality regular kerf blade I never even considered going back to a thin kerf. I have been using a 3 hp Jet cabinet saw for the last 7 years and use the WWII reg kerf 40 tooth blade for "All" cutting. If your sawing will include thick cutting you may want to consider going with a standard Cabinet saw and the 3 hp motor. I have resawed Ipe with the blade all the way up and fully buried inside a 1x6 with no hesitation or strain from the motor. Ipe is approximately 2.5 times harder than Oak.
Compared to their 650/350 it would be considered a hybrid. Your description of what a hybrid is, is how see it as well. A contractor saw with a better table and base. But I have been around saws long enough to know that a good contractor saw is better than a bad cabinet saw. And you are so right about the choice of blades... they make the truly BIG difference. But for me, right now, the difference in price between a 650/350 and the smaller saw is what will pay for the shipping of the Bot. I will build a monster outfeed table for the smaller saw with storage underneath, that's what's on the drawing board right now. I know my work flow pretty well and the saw will be part of the rough sizing department, along with a cutting station for long strips. The machining will be done by the bot, as will the cook-top and sink cut-outs. The Bot will never be used for fun things like signs and cabinet parts right? Right. Yuppers, for sure. Then the machined parts will go to the fabricating section which will be enclosed for temperature-, dust- and noise control. A part of that will be finishing section for all the same reasons, but with way heftier lighting.
r---> cleaning the bikes and going for a ride. I'll have a sore ass tonight, but for different reasons than the sore ass I got when I sent in my taxes. But if I want Freedom Fries, I have to peddle to get them.
"Robatoy" wrote
Is this going to be in a second building? It seemed that you mention you have to do this in two buildings.
If so, will there be any problem with moving the materials between buildings? Either in terms of moving carts over less than smooth surfaces or exposure to the weather?
I've been riding pavement all week, capped off by a ~ 3 hour mountain bike ride this morning.
We could have ridden all day, but my ride mate had a stick wind his rear derailluer into the rear wheel of his Intense. 8^0 Gave me a good excuse to go home and bleed the Hayes brakes on my Giant.
Nothing like a good sore ass!
Oh my, you're really into that, huh? The bike shop where I go, has some really...ermmm..'fringe' kinda riders, but we have no mountains. Lots of lovely laneways and paths, and some wonderful forest trails, but nothing that would warrant an all-out bike. The big bucks get dropped on road bikes with flat aerodynamic unobtanium spokes..like maybe 5/10 per wheel. 10,000 dollars for a bicycle says 'into it'. However. This is my bike... 'cept mine is blue (2 years ago they were all Blue) Made in Canada.
It was a beautiful day today and all the idiots with their crotch- rockets were screaming up the pavement, ...sirens blaring all day, ER personnel working over-time. The idiots didn't ride all winter...first warm day: "let's take our 150 MPH bikes out, Garth, and drink some beer, Garth, and get stupid, and I'll start the insurance tomorrow, Garth..duhhh.." " I'm going to get sooo drunk today, Garth, that I'll even be useless as a organ donor, Garth..."
When I was 18, nothing could kill me either..and didn't..see?
It was MUCH later in life that I learned that the only sure-fire way to get killed was to say: "No honey, it's not the pants that makes you look fat, it's your ass that makes you look fat."
r
Ah, good ole bicycle butt. Feeeeel the pain. LOL
Better you than me.
There has got to be a better way to get a sore rear end.
Lew
Waaay more information than I need....LOL.. LEW!! I never knew!!!
You mean that there was a time in my life when I could fly a bar stool for extended periods?
Lew
Oh... So THAT'S what you meant!
Ohhhh...*big sigh of relief* Bar-stool-ass.... now I get it.
Thanks for the tips guys. One of the things Dave mentioned is the quality/flatness/etc. of the top. This is one of the reasons i got rid of my delta contractor saw. The table on both side bowed slight in towards the throat. When cutting smaller pieces the blade would not be 90 degrees to the table as it would change as the distance out from the blade increased. VERY frustrating. I can afford the time to send a top back to a manufacturer if required as I am not in constant need of my saw. This is simply a hobby for me (one of many) but I do like to have quality equipment. I was spoiled working with a friend when we used to build speaker cabinets. He was a stickler for quality joints and therefore had quality equipment. It is hard to shake that mentality/desire. I think I will hold out for that 3 HP cabinet saw be it Jet or Grizzly.
Thanks again all for the info.
Paul
Sounds like a Darwin Award contender to me!
I've learned that there is NO safe response to "I need to lose some weight".
Bill
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