Bookcase/outlet dilemma

you can get extension cords that have a flat plug and go to the side, so they can be behind things like this.

I built my daughter a desk with a fully-covered back and she wanted it placed where it blocked an outlet. I resolved that by using an power strip with a flat plug to make power available to the side. Similar to

If you've got a 1/2" clear, as you say, make up a short, medium-duty,

Problem solved.

Note: Put one of the plastic 'safety guards' in the socket when it's not in use, to keep anything from 'accidentally' getting into the socket.

Here's my take.

Put a flat plug > Building a bookcase. Not the problem. However, where I want it,

I do this all the time, use an extension cord, there are ones with right angle male ends that do not stick out from the electrical outlett much more than 5/8", Hide the cord behind the cabinet.

As long as it's a free-standing bookcase, not built-in, it's not considered permanent for purposes of the NEC.

The NEC requires that all wiring boxes be "accessible" and defines the term thus:

"Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building."

I wold go with the #2/3 options depending on how much extension was needed. It is easy and you never know when you might want to put a computer photo frame, electric sensory candle, or other electrical device in your bookcase. This would work much better if you attached to the wall.

When we were building our house the electrician recommended putting a receptacle in the back of a vanity upright extension for electric tooth brush charging. Seemed strange but it turned out to be a very good idea.

RonB

Not a major event...

MJ wrote in news:a55fb8b3-ceba-4a32-9841- snipped-for-privacy@ri8g2000pbc.googlegroups.com:

I cut a hole the size of the outlet in the back of the Ikea Billy bookcase, then put a multiple outlet strip on the shelf. With an on/off switch, so I only draw juice when charging the batteries or using the shredder that are plugged in.

Han wrote in news:XnsA03FAF453729Dikkezelf@207.246.207.167:

For me the solution of a flatbacked plug to an outlet strip next to the bookcase was not an option. Of course, if that is an option, it is the better one, despite the vague NEC concerns.

On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 10:39:06 -0700 (PDT), MJ

What about a socket cover until if and when you want to use the outlet?

MJ: Is this case sitting on the floor a 1/2 inch away from the wall or is it fastened to the wall with a 1/2 inch gap between the case back and the wall?

How to move the outlet:

1. Remove baseboard.
2. Install after-work box somewhere in wall past the bookcase.
3. Run cable from existing box down, then along area that will be covered by baseboard. You may have to remove 1/2" of sheetrock to gain room for wiring. Then up to new box.
4. Replace baseboard. Wire up new outlet. Install cover plate over old outlet.

My best plan, done without seeing your arrangement, would be to remove the baseboard anyway and attach the bookcase to the wall. That way, it will look like it was intended to go there.

There are bookcases with no backs, shelves really. Did you consider that possibility?

Please, please, please, do _NOT_ ever do this for non-low-voltage wiring.

Think about someone adding another nail to the baseboard in the future.

If the wiring isn't more than 1" deeper than the surface, a nailing plate or metallic conduit is required to protect it from nails, screws, et al.

scott

You raise a good point - it's a matter of possibilities and probabilities. How thick of a metal plate do your recommend?

If you use metallic armored cable: BX or AC, you should be okay.

Something thick enough stop stop a nail. See the nailing plates in the electrical section of your local hardware store. Probably better to just make the appropriate holes in the drywall to wire behind it, then patch.

scott