I would like to replace the 3/4 HP motor on my bandsaw with a larger hp
motor. Do I need to buy a Delta motor for a Delta machine, etc ? Will
"any" electric motor work provided the pulleys are the same? Thanks
Not just "any" motor. Check the output RPM. Yours is probably 1725
and if so, you need to make sure you match that output or you have to
go through a pulley/guard change that you might not want to do. Also
if you use an ODP type motor (stock) rather than a TEFC, you need to
make sure that the centrifugal switch is dust proof. Also look at the
mount. Is yours an enclosed stand resiliant mount? that also needs
to be matched, or you will have to make an adaptor mounting plate.
Additionally, you need to make sure that the capacitor locations are
such that they do not have clearance issues.
Delta motors for domestic units up to 1HP are 1725 rpm and can be
interchanged with older models without any pulley changes. Newer
models of domestic bandsaws are all 1.5 hp (same motor as the last
contractor saw which has a 2 hp rating at 220V). It is mounted
differently and has a 3450 output RPM which would require pulley and
guard changes on your saw.
Keep in mind that if you exceed the design wheel RPM by as little 15%
or so you stand a good chance of throwing the tires.
In addition to the other good comments, how big a motor do you intend
to use on how big of a bandsaw? If you oversize it, you run the risk
of buckling the neck under heavy load (resawing to capacity w/ a riser
block comes to mind, the normal reason folks look for more power on a
You might instead (or at least in addition to) want to investigate more
aggressive blades, alignment, etc., to get the performance from what
Tim... On the advice of the group here, I got the Grizzly riser kit instead of
the Ridgid one... same thing and about 2/3 of the price.. I think it was about
$50 from Amazon a year or so ago..
Aside from having a Grizzly green block on a gray machine, it works fine.. *g*
I've put 10 or 11" stuff through it, but only when I have to... putting a bigger
opening and longer blade on it doesn't give it more HP or (pardon the pun)
I changed to a link belt which made it quieter and a little more efficient, I
think... Blades are from a local saw shop for $11 to $16 depending on size... I
use mostly 3/8" and they're about $13 a piece..
The main advantages of the riser kit, as I look back and compare it with and
without, are more light and air flow over the table and because you have that
extra 6", the thickness of my added table isn't nearly as critical...
Thanks Mac. I'll take this into consideration. Now another question, if you
don't mind. Did you alter/redo the dust collection? The original on mine
sucks, and I don't mean that in the good sense of the word. I have seen
others that have the dc drilled into the bottom door front, casing back,
just a variety of different places. As of yet, your the only other one I
know on the group that's got the Ridgid Saw. I really like mine, I've got
all Timberwolf blades up to 3/4 and I've resawn some really thin stuff with
it. No playing card stuff like *SOME PEOPLE*! LOL But I like it.
I've got the Ridgid bandsaw too--bought it from the BORG last Fall. Got
my riser block on Ebay for about $50.
As I said in another post, I just put a Timberwolf 1/2" blade on it last
week, and the resawing performance is so much better I almost can't
believe it. I've used it on bigleaf maple up to 8-1/2" wide, and the
cuts are smooth and true.
I even sliced a 1/4" thick piece of zebrawood about 5" wide into two
3/32" thick slices this afternoon, to be used as guitar headstock
Maybe I should get one of those link belts, eh wot?
I'd recommend one, Steve, for a couple of reasons:
As is normal, from what I understand, the saw got a bit quieter and smoother
with the link belt..
The other advantage of me was that I could CHOOSE what length the belt was..
On my saw, if I wanted to keep the belt loose enough to slip if the blade bound
up, I couldn't move the motor back far enough on the adjusting slots to open
the bottom door fully... a real PITA when changing blades..
I made the belt long enough so that when it's at the tightness that I want,
there's room for a shop vac nozzle between the lower wheel case and the motor..
I went the lower door route... 4" hole with a DC fitting...
It's not very effective at the moment, but it won't get a good test until I move
and can use the DC with it... right now it's got a reducer to the 2 1/2" shop
vac hose.. still it's much better than that tiny one that it came in the
I removed the original fitting and use a couple of magnets to hold a piece of
hardboard over the hole...
Since I'll be working in an indoor (part of the house) shop when we move, I'm
considering adding a "Y" at the blast gate and running on hose to the port in
the door and one to a shop-built collector under the table as close to the blade
guard as possible, pointed at the zero clearance insert..
BTW: this was not the saw that I wanted, it was just available with a deal that
I couldn't refuse when we got a new HD card... but it's a lot of saw for the
OH! Do you run yours on 110 or 220v?
I'll be running it on 220 when we move and hope that makes a bit of difference,
too.. if not, if/when the motor wears out I'll put a bigger one in...
I don't see that happening soon, as my brother has the same saw and it's 10
years old.. *lol*
Thanks again Mac. When you say shop built collector??? Does it work better
that the OEM? You got any pictures? As soon as I get some free time, yea
right, I'm going to pop a hole in the door I guess. I got to do something
about the amount of sawdust that thing kicks out.
I run it and the table saw 220. That was the first thing I did after I got
it set up. As for the difference, I couldn't honestly say, because I've
never had the chance to run one on 110.
I've had this one going on 8 years now. I have a couple new tires in the
cabinet for it, but as of yet, it don't really *need* them. So if you want
to do something with the motor, I wouldn't wait for it to croak. I don't
think anything'll get them boogers down.
I'll use sheet metal or bend a plastic vac adapter to fit.... the OEM port is
way to small to be effective, IMO....
After drilling the hole in the door and all, I read in the woodturning group
about collecting the dust at the blade...
I tried a really crude experiment: Shoved a 2 1/2" DC hose in from the back side
(opposite of the OEM fitting) and wedged it in across from the swing out lower
blade guard... it seemed to work very well with just a shop vac, so I'll try it
with the DC when the new shop is set up...
Some folks claim that this is a better position than on the door because you get
the dust out of the air sooner... makes sense to me and might be more effective
that the door type OR a "Y" to both, as you're concentrating the suction to one
Yep... for a "cheap" BS, they seem to use long lasting motors... maybe I'll
replace it and use the old one on my jet mini lathe.. *g*
I have the same rig--a 14" Ridgid with a riser block. I bought it new a
little less than a year ago. I was disappointed with resawing
performance until I got a 1/2" Timberline blade (3 TPI skip-tooth, I
believe) for it from Woodcraft last week. The blade cost me about $32,
and I'm amazed by the difference. I spent about an hour resawing some
bigleaf maple and claro walnut yesterday evening, and the results were
excellent. The pieces were 7 to 8 inches wide. The blade cut through
the wood like it was butter, and the cuts were smooth and true--no
wandering of the kind I had experienced with the cheaper blades I had
So get a good quality blade--this is definitely an area where you don't
want to skimp on the quality!
You don't need a "Delta" motor. Most of my machines are a different
brand. "Baldor" motors are quality, at least they have been for me.
You might consider a complete bandsaw tuneup and blade replacement
which is often better than more power.
I think it would help if you told us why you want to upgrade the motor.
If you truly need a more powerful motor, you might be better off
selling your working bandsaw and buying a new upgraded BS.
Maybe I'm different from the norm, but a new motor is going to be
expensive, plus there's potentially a lot of labor and screwing around
with no guarantee the saw will ever work right again. I'm in this hobby
to relax. I don't like screwing around with trying to soup up machines,
but I know some people do.
However, if he's got an older Delta, he might not be able to find a new
machine with the same overall quality.
As an ex-Delta hand/plant manager, IIRC, Frank B. gave him the best advice
he is ever going to get on this issue ... he should take Frank's advice as
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