2 christmas projects.

Jan 05, 2017 22 Replies
L

I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.

After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a

1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.

That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.

A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be looking for it.

Clamping is challenging.

  1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during clamping.
  2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during the clamp up.
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B

I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than what I've been doing.

Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut it all up again 8^)

Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.

End cauls too!

I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy. Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and shearing due to the slight wood movement). Everything is TB3 now, but with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.

Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay step without a drum sander?

-BR

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L

A small bit like I described above would require you to make a 1/2" deep initial grove if I you use 1/4" pattern material. With a 1/4" shank bit I really prefer to just go about 1/8" deep especially in maple.

LOL yeah, you are successful in gluing in the strips and clamping and planing the proud part of the strips and sanding a bit.......then do that 2 more times on the same board.

Not totally unlike making 3 times as many cutting boards with straight decorative strips.

I do not recall using end cauls, I think I just whacked the ends with a hammer and square cut the ends after the last glue up.

I used TBIII and had my wife assist, that went pretty fast but the epoxy is probably the best solution for open time and strength in the long run.

OOps nix my comment above.... ;~)

Everything is TB3 now, but

LOL well only nix the second half of my comment two responses up.

The drum sander certainly makes it easier but I would imagine a belt sander would suffice.

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