Applying dye as toner

Jan 05, 2017 4 Replies

I need to spray some interior doors. 2x6 Wood frame and glass center. The grain on the wood portion is objectionable. really In the past:



I put a light coat of shellac on first to seal the wood and objectional grain. Sanded it until smooth. Applied 2 coats of water borne analine dye and allowed it dry for 2 days. No touching because it just sits on top of the shellac. Mixed some dye into Hoods water based lacquer and sprayed enough coats to get my final color. Applied 3 coats of clear lacquer so that I could "finish the finish" using steel wool without taking off some of the color. Waxed the surface so that it is as smooth as a baby's bottom. The result is very good - BUT I still have a bunch more to do. There has got to be an easier way!


Any suggestions?



Len


New doors with a grain you like?

So I work with dyes quite a bit. I add my dye to the shellac or lacquer. In shellac it allows building it nicely as a toner.

I have stained first then used it as a toner on top since it's transparent and will allow the grain to show through.

I think water based with water based might be your problem. Water is a solvent for water based.. So water based topcoat is a solvent for water based dye.

But do understand that dye is just that dye, it's not a solid and won't get fully dark unless you use a lot of dye. I use dye alone on highly figured woods, but it takes quite a bit to get it where I want.

So I think I answered what you are looking for, but it was an open ended question.

I have powder aniline dye that is normally mixed with hot water. If I do that, there is a lot of water being put into the Hydrocote lacquer. What is your prescription for making the mix?

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