This wimp is glad to be unhurt and maybe even alive! That helmet has
saved me at least 4 trips to a hospital and left me basically unhurt each
time. The last time, I hit a bad spot in the ice and fell over
backwards. There was NO way to protect myself.
The game is different than it was in Bobby Hull's day. He made sure of
that with the curved stick, and Stan Makita, his teammate made sure of it
too! He developed the first usable hockey helmet. Mark Messier's work
with developing the M11 helmet took things to the next level. If
anyone's still playing with the older helmets, go take a look at the new
ones (Bauer owns the M11 line now). They are the most comfortable
helmets you'll ever wear!
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 2:58:02 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I like watching hockey, but I don't know all the rules, like (seemingly) di
fferent ways to be off sides. I don't know the different ways, so I can'
t comprehend the whats or whys about that, when it happens. I don't know (
probably) most of the blue line rules, either. And I don't know the strat
egies of the game, except, now and then, when an announcer describes the pr
eceding action (replay), leading up to the results.
After reading others' helmet comments, I thought....
Humpf! Real hockey players don't wear helmets. LOL
My helmet has saved me from at least 4 trips to the hospital. Real
hockey players wear helmets if they want to keep playing!
The last time wasn't all that long ago. I was turning from skating
forwards to backwards (we do it all the time) and I caught a bad spot in
the ice. My helmet hit the ice with my head safely protected inside it.
There was no time to do anything, it was just hit the bad spot and fall
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.
Give this a try next year. ;~)
Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.
Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.
The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.
Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.
With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.
Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
I've made a few of these after seeing the technique in FWW. I like
Leon's idea of the first pattern bit and template, I've always used a
guide bushing on the router table and one _must_ keep the board square
to the bit (no rotation allowed). Works good for simple curves but
errors creep in if one is not careful.
Leon, how long is your pattern bit? The bits I have would require a
template at least 3/4" thick.
The latest ones:
There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)
I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.
After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.
That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.
A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.
Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during clamping.
2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.
I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use
the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than
what I've been doing.
Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut
it all up again 8^)
Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that
leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.
End cauls too!
I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set
into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy.
Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started
having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and
shearing due to the slight wood movement). Everything is TB3 now, but
with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.
Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay
step without a drum sander?
A small bit like I described above would require you to make a 1/2" deep
initial grove if I you use 1/4" pattern material. With a 1/4" shank bit
I really prefer to just go about 1/8" deep especially in maple.
LOL yeah, you are successful in gluing in the strips and clamping and
planing the proud part of the strips and sanding a bit.......then do
that 2 more times on the same board.
Not totally unlike making 3 times as many cutting boards with straight
I do not recall using end cauls, I think I just whacked the ends with a
hammer and square cut the ends after the last glue up.
I used TBIII and had my wife assist, that went pretty fast but the epoxy
is probably the best solution for open time and strength in the long run.
OOps nix my comment above.... ;~)
Everything is TB3 now, but
LOL well only nix the second half of my comment two responses up.
The drum sander certainly makes it easier but I would imagine a belt
sander would suffice.
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