Working temperature ranges of adhesives?

Sep 26, 2022 Last reply: 3 years ago 8 Replies

Almost a fortnight ago, I posted the following at

formatting link



-----



Working temperature ranges



I have been asked to re-fix a handle which is no longer spot-welded to a bowl (17cm across, 6cm deep, about 0.5mm thick; handle is bent rod, 5mm diameter; both are stainless steel) which is apparently used for boiling but might be put in a refrigerator.



So I need a glue which has a working temperature range encompassing say -20C to 110C. Most glue manufacturers do not, as far as I can see, give that sort of information (but I knew of one type which claims an upper limit of 1300C).



I suggest, therefore, for the Article, a table of properties, giving for each generic type of glue: whether it sets hard or flexible, its setting time at normal temperature, its working temperature range, etc. For some jobs, that table could be enough to show what is needed; for others it could at least eliminate some categories.



I don't know enough to begin writing such a table. 94.30.84.71 (talk) 22:07, 13 September 2022 (UTC)


-----



Unsurprisingly, nothing has yet happened as a result.



So : (1) Any suggestions of suitable glues? (2) Could that information be added to the DIY Wiki?


I think my first suggestion would be don't glue it, weld it. If not that, then braze it or hard/silver solder it.

IMHO, the last resort would be to glue it. However something like JB Weld or JB Weld "High Heat" might do the job.

Of course, it would even be on topic :-)

If the bowl is used to heat water over an open flame (gas hob for instance) then the upper temperature will need to be greater than 110C and the glue must not catch fire, char or release toxic smoke in a naked flame.

Build something from a car battery, electronic switch etc. to spot weld the handle back on aka DIY spot welders for attaching metal strip to batteries. The handle being one of the electrodes and the bowl the other.

Sounds like you need to contact NASA, as some of the repair kits for the old Shuttles tiles had some glues on them. Brian

There's a vast range of glues out there. All epoxies for example are far from the same. It would be a gigantic never ending table. Said table would give nowhere near the info needed to make gluing choices Perhaps you could make it your life's purpose if you've nothing better to do.

PS gas flames tend to be around 2000C, not 100.

That will be the peak, at the top of the core of a flame. The temperature of the burnt gas at bowl-handle height would be much less; and the temperature of the handle joint would be reduced by cooling from the inside. I would not expect such a joint to reach anything near a dull red heat, say 500C, in normal use. I cannot test that, as we have no gas supply; we cook by electricity. H'mm - I do have a Primus stove.

Aside - given the possibility of electricity failure for whatever reason. one might be able to get a useful amount of light by suspending pieces of gas-mantle in D-I-Y fashion over a lit gas- cooker ring. A wire coat-hanger bent to shape, with pieces of unused mantle material stuck to it with heat-resistant glue. The proposed table does not need to be exhaustive, for UK D-I-Y use. For any given task, one only needs to be able to find a type of glue with acceptable properties, including availability. When it has dried, I intend to test ordinary Poundland UHU at nominally 100C and 20OC, after cooking has prepared those ambients. Then I shall have a draft line for the Table.

For Brian Gaff : Or asking Elon Musk.

For John Rumm : We only have an ordinary soldering iron; that, with Arax flux, mended her donated stainless-steel mug's un-spot-welded handle, but not easily and on much thinner material. I have yet to discover how worth-while mending this bowl would be. My suggestion of drilling for a pair of small steel bolts, bridged with a bit of wood, instead of the handle, was rejected (I have a colander done that way).

A mapp gas blowtorch would be adequate to braze a repair...

Arguably even soft solder might be good enough - but I don't know how easy it is to solder stainless.

temp is unknowable without testing, but 100C max is unlikely.

tried that once. Onion skin works as a mantle. Dropping stuff on a gas ring is highly inefficient, most of the gas & most of the mantle miss each other. Mantle & onion are most fragile once burnt, making most methods of mounting no good.

ISTR it being perspex in solvent.

SS has a chrome oxide surface, you'd need a very active flux, eg acid.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required