Any thoughts on what would be the best preserving stuff to paint a shed with? It's shiplap construction, and the wood has a sort of green tinge to it, so I think it was tanalised or similar before construction. Ideally the finish would not be too dark, a sort of golden syrup colour woulld be perfect. Preferably something that would last a few years before I have to squeeze between the shed and the fence again!
Thanks for any thoughts.
Danny
Creosote.
Not allowed that anymore Frank. Effin Softy.
Creasote Substitute. No idea what it is, but I bet it isn't as good as real creosote.
Ronseal/Cuprinol do some good stuff these days.
Now look, there's no need to be rude, like.
I would refer the honourable gentleman to the Viz website, wherein he can learn the correct pronunciation for all points north of Sheerness.
The key factor is to have good old down to earth high VoC solvent based product. None of your wishy washy, water based rubbish.
On Tyneside they know this.
In message , Andy Hall writes
Would this be a good idea given that the Op is talking about having to "squeeze between the shed and the fence" to apply it?
Cuprinol springs to mind. Regarding restricted access, my shed is close to the fence on two sides and it isn't possible to stand in the gap to apply preservative. I use a hand-pumped pressure sprayer to overcome the access problem.
I can still buy it fairly easily. It's still 'permitted' for such as telegraph poles, railway sleepers, et al.
And Wearside.
Dear Danny Is you address a coincidence? (smile).. on to the answer If your shed (empahasis - can't use capitals any more!) ...is... tanlalised then you do not need to preserve it. You need to find out for sure. Look at the timber inside closely and see if it has the green (or in later years possibly brown) tinge. To differentiate between true water-borne vacuum impregnation and a later application of a treatment fluid to get such a colour effect you will need to "sacrifice" a small section of timber near the end grain of a piece being investigated. go for a piece of treated end grain and cut a longitudial sectioin out, say 1 mm thick , a 20 to 50 mm long and 5 to 10 mm wide such that you can see the whole of the cross section of the end grain eithe tangentially or longitudinally. This will tell you for sure (almost) if it has been treated under pressure as you will see the treatment colour a long way up the end grain which would not be the case with a brush application. If someone has done an immersion treatment that may fool you but such a treatment is not likely with a shed. So assume you find it ...is... tanalised then all you need is a decorative finish. Psuedo-creosote, (it is bound to be against COPR to sell you real creosote - Elfin S again!) or much better Saddolins medium build Water Repellant Preservative Stains. If it has not been treated and you think you need to treat it - decide why. Only consider treating areas at risk - sole plates - end grain exposed etc etc and consider physical means first ( eg isolating sole plates with a dpm). Were you a professional contractor - you would be obliged to take this route under the Coshh regs. As an amateur you can do virtually what you like provided you follow the instructions on the tin. I recommend (as posted by others) an OS based fungicide and application on a hot summers day when a cold night is forecast. If you can apply several coats - so much the better. Once the active ingredient is in the timber proceed to protect with a WRPS as described above. Hope the shed is worth it! Chris G
I meant the Effin Softy at Werk Act you twit. I would never imply that a Geordie was an effin softy - I like my front teeth too much!
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.