Wire fence mesh between wooden posts

The proper way is to use a three support wire system and also tensioning vertical metal pieces on the poles of the runs. However for a smaller fill in then you might just get away with one at the top annd one at the bottom tensioned in some bespoke way. Brian

What size mesh? IOW what is it intended to keep in or out?

Can you live with a single wooden rail to hold it rigid?

I have rabbit protection galvanised 1" chicken wire at the bottom and dug into the ground and pig netting as the main fence with a single bar along the top. It works pretty well. The pig netting is mostly over 50 years old and apart from the odd rusty scratch still good as new.

Agreed, need more information, also about the length to be covered. Your "fencing" ranges from "tennis court" wire fencing as mentioned by Brian, through to stock fencing mentioned by Martin. I'm not sure what pig fencing is, I thought that pigs could get through anything other than blockwork or wire with a *strong* electrified fence. I'd tend to think of sheep fencing in the UK. Finally small mesh galvanised, either hexagonal or square.

Chicken wire or tennis court type fencing can look awful if installed badly and not tensioned. Most of this type of fencing is installed with metal posts often with bracing at the ends or corners. Some of the square stock fencing is a lot more rigid and semi self supporting but don't forget the top strand of barbed wire that sheep and cattle farmers add to their fencing.

Where is this fencing going to be used? Back garden in an urban area? Rural where you land backs onto farming? Is the fence also going to give some privacy, for you or your neighbours? How high does it need to be, 4 foot or 6 foot?

Does the fencing have to look cosmetically good?

Good quality wooden fence panels can last a log time but you should keep them out of contact with the earth either by using sacrificial wooden gravel boards or concrete gravel boards. In my experience it's the "treated" wooden posts that you can get sheds that don't last too long and rot within a few years at the air/soil boundary.

And of course you don't have to be too handy to fit feather edge board to triangular rails fixed to standard square posts with the special galvanised brackets. Last time I looked this was as cheap as cheap fence panels, but IME these materials last 20 years or more (apart from the posts, which fail at ground level). Also handy if your space does not need a whole number of panels.

On 19/02/2022 11:54, alan_m wrote: > On 19/02/2022 11:12, newshound wrote: >> On 19/02/2022 09:41, Martin Brown wrote: >>> On 19/02/2022 04:30, john west wrote: >>>>

Thanks The location is North London. Its at the bottom of my garden and out of sight behind shrubs. It will be 6 ft high. The horizontal spans i will make the same as the usual fence panels. It backs on to a rarely used green space and is also out of sight behind shrubs on that side. It doesn't have to be security proficient. My biggest initial problem is finding out what kind of inexpensive wire mesh arrangement that is easy to install between the wooden posts.I now realize i have some spare roof wooden battens i could stretch out and fasten to the wooden posts for extra rigidity.