Very short Acrow props or what?

I need to sort out a sagging floor where a 120 year old dwarf wall is no longer supporting the joists. I'd thought I'd support the joists with Acrows while packing/rebuilding the wall but I can't find any short enough to fit the gap of around 0.4m. Is there such a thing? If not, what could I use please?

Reply to
Robin
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I need to sort out a sagging floor where a 120 year old dwarf wall is no longer supporting the joists. I'd thought I'd support the joists with Acrows while packing/rebuilding the wall but I can't find any short enough to fit the gap of around 0.4m. Is there such a thing? If not, what could I use please?

Reply to
Robin

Car scissors jack and some packing pieces (or sit it on a breeze block)?

Tim

Reply to
Tim

Some cheap car bottle jacks on bricks?

Reply to
Tim Watts

Scissor or other screwed jacks yes. I wouldn't trust anything cheap and hydraulic to not sink very slowly.

Reply to
Hugh - Was Invisible

Car jacks on bricks/wood packing?

Reply to
Paul - xxx

As suggested, a car jack (on a block if needed) or a short length of, say, 4x4 and a pair of folding wedges.

Reply to
Kevin

car jacks ??. Scissor type or bottle type, plus small pillars of engineering bricks or 7N blocks and bits of wood. All you need to to is support the weight of the floor.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew

Bit agricultural Harry but should work:-)

Basically cut the timber to fit the space plus desired uplift. Put the bottom end where you want it and hammer the top to wedge the joist up.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

a stick, slightly longer than 0.4m. Stick in at an angle, and tap more upright with a hammer until you achieve the amount of lift required. Failing that, a pile of bricks and some folding wedges say on top to allow adjustment.

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Reply to
John Rumm

That could be a lot of hammer action in a confined space!

Robin has not said if the floorboards are up or if he is crawling under the floor to do the work:-)

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Thank you, and others, for all the suggestions. I have 2 old bottle jacks and 4 axles stands so I'll aim to use the former to provide a bit of temporary lift and the latter with some blocks and folding wedges for the longer term support. I've never used folding wedges so that'll be a voyage of discovery for me: they look a really nice machine.

Initially crawling under. But I may well end up removing skirting boards and lifting floorboards to get a more level floor which at my pace means "I may be some time".

Reply to
Robin

OK. And just to keep it on topic are you not supposed to use slate or some other similar material for the final bit between the new dwarf wall and the floor joists?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Yes thank - from what I've read either slate or DPM. Since I've got a few slates from the roof which were not worth recycling I shall be old-fashioned/miserly/authentically Victorian.

Reply to
Robin

Well if you are going to be Victorian about it should you not sent a 10 year old under the floorboards to do the work for you:-)?

I have a spare 8 year old knocking about if you will wait a couple of years for the work doing...............

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Politicians, cut to size.

(sorry, but correct answers IMHO already suggested ;)

Reply to
Jules Richardson

or Speakers, as is.

Reply to
Bob Eager

Does it matter if you cut a politician up, or are they better cut down, I wonder?

Reply to
Paul - xxx

The magic phrase is "trench prop"

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Reply to
Tony Bryer

gh to fit the gap of around 0.4m. =A0Is there such a thing? =A0If not,

I made my own ... used adjustable feet off quick fit scaffolding, and some short lengths of scaffold tube cut to length I wanted.

The adjustable feet had a long male thread that fits inside tube .. so that works fine, you just screw up the handles on the adjuster nut to adjust acrow. initially I just had ends of tube pressing against a piece of hardwood ... then during lull in using them welded on some 200 x 200 top plates.

Cost was zero .... found all parts I needed hanging around on different sites.

Reply to
Osprey

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