Using a 16A Schuko socket

Unless you use a different charging cable you?ll still be limited to 10 amps. Big Clive did a teardown of one recently explaining a bit about how they work.

Mike's Electric Stuff has probably done better EVSE teardowns than Clive in this instance

But at least I offered a link... ;-)

Tim

The most recent three videos on his teardowns playlist

Yeah, I have my eye on a different charging cable which will do up to 16A. Thanks for the link.

Yeah, I was wondering about all this nanny interlocking. I guess it's because a car charging the cable is most likely will be left coonected all the time and just dumped on the floor in all weathers. People are lazy, coiling up to store neatly or put in the car just ain't going to happen, particulary in the wet and when they'll only be uncoiling it a few hours later on their return. A caravan power cable will travel with the van.

Can't see why the car has to talk to the supply point. Easy enough to have a "no load" switch that isolates the cable under no load conditions and a button to set it when the cable is connected. Car needs to know how much opwer is available? If power is on this pin - x kW, that pin - y kW both pins z kW. Simples. No need to have some electronics always on consuming power...

When used with a motorhome, it could be unplugged and left in a puddle or on wet grass, in the rain, each day.

Yes, nice and simple.

SteveW

Some do, at least in the UK. Some of the newer sites have outlets on the bollards which require you to twist the plug after inserting it and to press a button to release it.

They confuse overseas visitors and those who?ve not seen them before - they try another socket, then start asking ?neighbours? if their power works etc.

Not many caravans can take 43kW

AFAIK there's not much signalling from car->EVSE just a resistor divider to let the car say it's connected and ready, or it's charging, or there's an error. Also a diode so the EVSE can't be fooled by a short on the signalling pin.

Signalling from EVSE->car is a 1kHz tone, where the duty ratio says how many amps it's able to provide.

On 27/01/2020 21:39, Dave Liquorice wrote: > On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 19:55:27 +0000, bert wrote: >

Commando with an interlocked isolator would technically be a departure but at least trivial to justify.

That's my understanding anyway - could be wrong and welcome correction.

Ah - sorry, brain fart. Read it as if you were going to spur it off a ring.

It's a while since I did the installation course and I have only fitted one charging point since I went on it.

Actually the NICEIC bloke said to treat both TNS and TNC-S as the same thing as the UK's electrical infrastructure is s*it.

I believe that you are correct and "most if not all" of PME outdoor installs required a TT installation. The big problem was that you also had to TT any other circuits that you might be able to touch whilst touching the car. You were then given a picture of a bloke with long arms that could touch his car and then his outside lights, electric gates or outside socket (not all at the same time he did not have 3 arms).

If I can find the installation book I'll quite happily scan it for you and then the next time I have to install a car charging point (Christ knows when) or the subject appears on the newsgroup you can look the info up for me and send me the details whilst I am down the pub having a pint:-)

Seriously, I will have to read that installation book again and if you do want a copy I'll do one for you when I have time.

Use a double insulated light?

Make the drive and sensors transformer isolated 24V?

At least that can be moved to another location that even Mr. Tickle can't reach :)

SteveW

They do, although you can get shuttered Schuko style sockets.

There is a commando where the isolation is included in the socket - such that you can't energise it until the plug is in.

(quite pricey though)

In a garage, its arguable you could skip making it TT. The charge lead will often include the type A RCD.

And the 8 bit guy did quite a good summary of all the various variations of charge connector and charging options in use :

Would it not make more sense to hard wire in a proper 32A style charger?

Not sure if this is 100% relevant but may be of interest - David Savery doing a Tesla chrging point install:

Yes, but... The car is a company car and as yet they haven't decided if providing me with a home charging point is something they want to pay for. Charging at work is provided - free. The car only has a 3.3kW on-board charger (excluding the quick charge option) for connection to 230Vac. The supplied EVSE charge cable is limited to 10Amps, 2.2-2.4kW. But if I get a 16Amp EVSE, then that could be considered as an accessory for the car, and the company would then pay. Only £100-£150. And I don't mind stumping up a few pounds for a Schuko in the garage.