We have a new kiln rated at 3.6kW. It requires a single-phase supply.
3600/230=15.7A. It has 16A 2P+E plug on it like this one:There is a consumer unit in the shed with space for another breaker.
Many thanks.
Hi, The unit you have found is for plugging a caravan in. Something like this is needed
Just because a socket is built to carry up to 16 amps - it doesn't have to. Some people may have low powered equipment with that type of plug and want to use a 13 amp socket.
Your kiln will blow the 13 amp fuse.
I suggest you wire up a spur (radial) directly to the fuse box. Someone with more knowledge will advise on cable size and ratings.
What is feeding the shed fuse box? It may already be limited by the circuit feeding it.
On Wed, 3 Feb 2010 01:33:30 -0800 (PST) someone who may be JP Coetzee wrote this:-
Caravans. They have the those sort of plugs and sockets. Caravan places also tend to offer leads with a French/German plug on one end.
They can also be used to connect tools and other low power devices.
It is best to connect it via one of these
Other suppliers are available and this sort of socket is even available in the larger big orange sheds ("Depots", unless they have changed the name recently).
The socket could be connected to the ring main, if that is not already heavily loaded, via a 16A circuit breaker.
However, it would be far better to install a 20A circuit breaker/fuse in the consumer unit and run a radial circuit to the socket. You could install more than one of these sockets on the same circuit, but you will not be able to run more than one kiln. Multiple sockets arranged in this way are for flexibility.
JP Coetzee wibbled on Wednesday 03 February 2010 09:33
I wouldn't. Your kiln is presenting a *sustained* (I assume, during the warmup phase) 3.6kW load which is going to cook a 13A plug/socket. Those adaptors are OK for short high loads, eg 110V transformer supplying some intermittent use kit.
If you have space in the CU, add a 16A commando socket on a radial to a
16A/20A breaker in the spare way. Job done, properly :)
Wire a new radial for it.
This is for several reasons:
When wiring it, use good quality parts (MK) and carefully check the screw connectors in everything. This includes screw connectors in old circuits that are involved too. Very few appliances pull over 3kW continuously for long periods, so if you're likely to have connector contact heating problems (loose screw terminals start fires), this is when you're going to get them.
James Salisbury wibbled on Wednesday 03 February 2010 09:41
I should have added that. IEE Regs (17th) preclude fitting unshuttered sockets in a domestic premises (although I wouldn't worry too much for a workshop *if* the socket were nice and high) - just in case you have (visiting) kids...
But the best approach is the interlocked socket James mentions here. On=can't pull the plug out, and Off=isolated. Can't engage isolator without inserting a plug. There are other makes too (eg MK), all termed as interlocked.
On Wed, 3 Feb 2010 02:03:14 -0800 (PST) someone who may be Andy Dingley wrote this:-
Fixed loads of up to 16A, protected by a suitable fuse or circuit breaker, can be connected to ring mains. A socket is simply a means of providing a connection point which does not need someone with electrical skills to connect/disconnect the equipment.
I'm not saying this is the best way to connect something. In most circumstances wiring back to the consumer unit is far better, but on occasions it might be acceptable to connect to the ring.
I hope (and pray) you meant:
R.
Not if you want to live for long :-) (or they have the wrong picture).
They are an industrial connector used for all sorts. Machinery etc. Even caravan site connectors. Anything where 13 amps isn't enough - or you require a more rugged connector.
If the supply is up to it fit a radial from a new 16 amp breaker to the correct socket. Ordinary 2.5 TW&E should be fine for a short cable run. TLC etc will supply a suitable socket for the fitted plug.
But do make sure the supply to the shed is up to it. Which would normally mean it is greater than 2.5mm.
Are you absolutely certain about this? I've never seen a device intended for this sort of use. FCUs are limited to 13 amps. Indeed it's now frowned upon to connect any sustained fixed load - like say an immersion - to a ring circuit, even within the 13 amp limit.
Not for long...
Plugging in your caravan etc when at home.
Interlocked matching commando socket on a dedicated radial circuit protected by a 16A type B MCB. A run of 2.5mm^2 T&E should be more than adequate if not particularly long or subject to other derating factors. If surface wired, or in mini trunking then it does not need to be RCD protected (which does not add any value in this application, but does have downsides).
That makes it easy then ;-)
Yes.
Not saying it's a good idea, but it's allowed, with a fuse or breaker up to 16A.
Connecting the primary electric heating system (space or water) to a ring is not allowed though. Supplementary heating and small water heaters are allowed.
On Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:38:03 +0000 someone who may be TheOldFellow wrote this:-
Yes, my mistake.
What I linked to is the sort of thing one would fit to a caravan as an inlet coupling, into which the lead fits. What you linked to is what I should have linked to.
That's still the wrong picture and the wrong current rating and almost certainly the wrong price by a factor of 10. In fact Screwfix have completely borked all their descriptions of MK commando product. None of the items they are describing on this page as "interlocked" is in fact interlocked.
MK will be expensive wherever you buy it from. The MK part you would want is K9610 BLU (IP44) or K9324 BLU (IP67).
Your best bet might be go get one on Ebay, such as item no 320480965653 or 380197360076 or 380199654506
The first item is Mennekes brand, which is top quality. The other supplier sells Gewiss product, which is another Italian maker and similar in quality to Ilme.
HTH
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 10:57:01 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote this:-
There isn't anything specifically made for this sort of thing that I have seen. However, one could wire a 16A MCB, in a suitable enclosure, into a ring main and feed fixed equipment from it. For example
can presumably be fitted with an MCB and a blanking plate.
I'm not saying this is a good idea in many circumstances, it takes up half the rating of the ring, but in some circumstances it may be acceptable. An example would be a small workshop/garage where the ring only feeds small hand tools and general equipment like portable lights, and there is no spare way.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember JP Coetzee saying something like:
Simply to run tools with a 16A plug that happen to draw less than 13A.
Fit a 16A socket as a spur above one of your normal sockets - as it's a ring, it's good. Or run a radial from the CU.
Agreed, although I'm unsure of the 17th's position on this.
However I don't regard this as a practical option here.
Firstly it's "work" to do it. We're talking about a fused connection to the existing ring and a spur to the blue socket, not just sticking the blue socket straight onto the ring. Now if this workshop is anything like mine in layout (a house-sized CU by the door), that's nearly as much work as running a whole radial back to the CU. That also gives me fresh cable, in my choice of size, with no other loads on it.
Secondly (maybe first) it's important to split the RCD protection.
Thirdly diversity is hard in a workshop - the planer auto-starts the dust extractor, the plasma cutter uses the compressor too. That's multi-kW loads kicking in in pairs. Some of the assumptions underlying the design of the domestic ring just aren't applicable here.
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 10:53:51 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote this:-
If I was doing it myself I might, for a bit of fun, wire it up to a French style socket and fit a suitable plug [1] [2]. Provided that the conditions in the garage were not such that a "BS4343" connection is needed for robustness.
Obviously switching and protection would need to be double pole, including those in the kiln but that is presumably not UK/ROI specific and any new one would presumably need to be suitable for use anywhere in the EU.
[1] making sure both are rated at 16A, some are rated at 10-16A depending on approval body. [2] the French style one is better in my view than the German style, where the earth arrangement on many relies on a rivet to hold the earth connection, which is designed to twist slightly, to the earth terminal block. The Danish version is the best of all, but will eventually be replaced with the French version for uniformity.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.