I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the (RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box from behind.
I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?
Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what 'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?
In your case, yup - since the cable won't be exposed outside.
Probably got all you need. To seal the cable entry at the back I would normally mount them on a splodge of silicone so that any water running down the wall can not get behind it. You could also use one of the waterproof plastic glands - although you will need to drill a big enough hole on the outside of the wall to take the width of the gland.
I have the double version of this. It has no knockouts on the back; so I brought the cable out through the wall in rigid conduit leaving about 2 cm proud, drilled the back of the box and siliconed the conduit in. I think it gives a neat finish with no extra fittings or careful measuring required.
That one remains weatherproof when there's something plugged in to it. If you won't be using it in the rain, there are cheaper ones which are weatherproof only when nothing is plugged in. If it's just for mowing the lawn, that's usually good enough.
I would buy an MK grommet for T&E (has a small slot in the middle which stretches around T&E).
I fitted a double pole 20A isolating switch inside in the dry. This enables you to disconnect the outdoor circuitry if it happens to get damp and trip the RCD. Might also prevent anyone else stealing your electricity via that socket.
You could also make the socket a TT circuit by it having it's own earth rod outside.
Yes, or even in singles if you put a bit of conduit through the wall.
The correct way to do this is to discard the back box which comes with the socket and use a 56504 GRY rear entry box instead. This, which TLC don't seem to stock, has a central 20 mm entry in the back and no knockouts round the sides. You can then fit either a 56462 BLK conduit adaptor or a 56461 BLK shaped PVC cable entry grommet, both of which TLC do list.
An alternative would be to use the 56541 grommet in the bottom entry position (Ob. ooo err) bringing the cable out through the wall just underneath the socket.
Please don't. I just helped my mother move from a 3 bedroom house to a one bedroom flat in a retirement community. We threw away over 100 bin bags full of cr*p.
Many thanks for all the advice - notably the above which has saved me a tenner (hadn't realised there were different grades available like this)!
So, taking advantage of the nice weather to fit it this afternoon. Am curious about the instructions though. The back-box has two earthing terminals - given that this is obviously a plastic box, when would they be required?
The instructions are as follows:
"2.3.1 Sockets In spur configuration we recommend feed cable of 1.5 sq. mm for the single socket and 2.5 sq. mm for the double socket. If the unit is to form part of a ring then incoming and outgoing cables must both be 2.5 sq. mm (with the double socket we recommend that the incoming and outgoing cables can be connected to one socket each with a 2.5 sq. mm bridging cable between the two sockets.
Use back box earthing terminals to maintain earth continuity where required."
Which brings me to another query. This doesn't apply to me as I have a single socket, but what on earth is the bit about using a bridging cable in a double socket? Surely it can't mean that this is necessary for the continuity of the ring to be maintained, or, apart from anything else, it would be compulsory rather than recommended? (FWIW the double socket is at: )
When wiring a lightswitch or other accessory which does not need an earth. Are both terminals marked for earth, or could one be used for looping the lighting circuit?
It looks as though the double socket is two single sockets mounted on the same faceplate, without internal links between the two.
The two terminals are for use on high integrity, multi-computer installations where the total earth leakage current is 10mA and above, as I recall. The double socket probably comes without the necessary links/bridges beteween the two 13A socket outlets. I wouldn't recommend the use of 1.5mm² cable from a final ring circuit. Regards
Can't remember the markings, and I ain't unscrewing it all now! ;-)
)
Well I did wonder about that possibility, but wouldn't that make the bridge really pretty important, rather than just the mealy-mouthed 'recommended'? Admittedly I can't think of any other reason though.
The double socket may in fact be two singles each with their own independent and non connected terminals. Hence with a ring you could connect one leag to each socket and then need to bridge them (equally you could connect both to one, and then need a bridge to provide power to the other socket rather than maintain ring continuity.
However I agree the wording is poor.
The earth terminals are probably there as the backbox will be used in a number applications like for use with light switches etc.
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