Trying to identify & source a capacitor.

Mar 03, 2014 9 Replies

Just to begin, I am an ignoramus at almost everything electronic but I am aware of the dangers of handling undischarged capacitors. I am trying to identify a capacitor fitted to a 38w 2D fluorescent light and source a couple of new ones. Have tested this with a multimeter and it appears to be dead.. Capacitor is approx. 25mm dia x 65mm long inc. connectors. Connectors are push in type that can be a pig to remove without a bit of thin piano wire (don't know what these are called). It is marked: DNA UK LPPT 004012 4uF +/- 10%. MKP type A. 08/04 (This may be a date stamp but the lights are date stamped 2009) Have posted a pic here if of any help

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Any help with identifying this and sources for replacement items please? Terminal type shouldn't matter too much, they can be altered to suit. Thanks, Nick.


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Thanks for that. I googled for all I could think of. Lighting capacitor did not occur to me. Is there any difference tween a a motor & lighting capacitor? Nick.

Different mounting usually, possibly higher duty cycle.

as a matter of interest, all you should see on a multimeter is a very short kick when you reverse the probes. I'd be very worried if it actually read as a resistance.

So are you sure its dead?. If there is a choke as well, I've had those just die for no apparent reason and completely screw the thing up. In the end it might be more cost effective to take the guts out and install a solid state ballast instead. Brian

What's wrong with the light? That cap is likely to be for power factor correction only and the light should work perfectly well without it - unless the cap has gone s/c, in which case just disconnect it.

If the light isn't working for some other reason it would be better to throw away choke and cap and spend your money on a new HF ballast, such as

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which will pay for itself in reduced running cost.

If the light is not working and someone has told the OP that it may be the starter capacitor should he instead be looking for something like this

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in his installation. In my experience a very likely cause of a florescent light not working.

I thought 2D didn't use those canned starters.

The 4uF cap is most probably a pfc cap, if so it doesnt need to be there at all.

NT

That's true enough. I've been meaning to refit the 4.7uF PFC cap that I 'borrowed' from a 2 foot quickstart fitting in what was originally the 'Coal Bunker" in my basement these past few years now. It seems to work just fine without it (20W is the upper limit for uncorrected PF on a fluorescent lamp ballast according to the regs the last time I looked).

However, I did notice that its starting performance became very sluggish when I did that, sometimes taking several minutes to 'spring into life'. It's not so bad now since I cracked open the basement window to reduce the RH and clear the dampness out.

Since reducing the RH somewhat, I no longer have to (literally!) lend a hand to the 4 foot tube in the main part of the basement to assist its startup (also in a quickstart transformer choke ballasted fitting) which now turns on in an instant no matter how cold.

It seems, in retrospect, that high levels of humidity have a deletorious effect on startup performance of a quickstart ballast circuit.

For new equipment on retail sale, yes. Of no relevance to domestic users.

NT

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