The Bunglow - Dec 08 - Small progress

[Tim S]

all,

Well, Pete the Builder's been busy. Internal walls are up and the glass blocks are in one of the modified windows. At 2.50 to 3.50 + VAT per block, it's quite a cost effective way of doing the odd window - and ideal for a loo or shower location if you like that sort of thing...

A bit of investigation into the dormer roof shows we have cross ventilation between the dormers. So we need to vent the fascias (no soffits). That will be the subject of another thread...

And... today, I learnt how to use a box sinker and wall chaser. Came up with a "standard" to have a single comms plate (Euromod) above (probably) every twin 13A socket. Looks OK. Think I'll use this pattern everywhere. For the cost of a metal box, blanking plate and 2m of round conduit (ie less than 2 quid) there's no reason not to sink a comms box next to every socket.

BTW - I didn't put the comms on the same horizontal level as I don't want to take mains though the back of the comms box should it be in a position that the mains will be running horizontally to the next socket. And I didn't want to change the layout depending on where the mains goes.

Cheers

Tim

[ARWadsworth]

ventilation

Not bad going mate.

All I have to show for Christmas is a skip full of empty bottles, a sore head and a bit of a black eye.

Am I correct in assuming that you are going for bonding and finish on the walls instead of dot and dab?

Adam

[Owain]

Do tell, there's nothing much on the telly tonight, could do with some entertainment

Owain

[ARWadsworth]

There is never anything on the telly worth watching. But as you asked.

1) The empty bottles are due to parties 2) The sore head is due to the empty bottles 3) I caught someone pinching my girlfriends purse from her handbag in a pub. I forgot the golden rule and I forgot to watch my back. The landlord was from Glasgow. He blacked everyones eyes before deciding which side he was on before calling the police. Is 90 miles away from him safe enough to call him a fat bastard even though he eventually joined my side?

Adam

[Tim S]

ARWadsworth coughed up some electrons that declared:

Nothing wrong with that Adam...

Unless it caused this of course :(

It will be plastered - I hate PB on walls. Plastering the celcon blocks is in the job spec for Pete the Builder - on the old walls I'll learn to make good myself.

I've been using a few blobs of Nomorenails to lock the conduit in position prior to plastering - seems to work.

Cheers

Tim

[The Medway Handyman]

I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV soap :-)

[ARWadsworth]

Hooray. Someone else that hates dry wall.

Fill the back boxes with plastic bags before the walls are plastered. Other methods are cardboard cutouts that are a tight fit or just making sure you are on site to remove the excess plaster just before it dries.

Adam

[Tim S]

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

Try this:

some world class needless bodgery...

Except the 1st pic - that's not a bodge - that's a shaver socket and spare conduit for a mirror light in the shower area. Mirror light might technically be just outside Zone 2 - but I think I'll put in a SELV light for good measure anyway...

On the bodgery, a quick precis - had some more floor up so I gould find the conduit I'd just poked up from below.

Discovered:

2 "8x2" joists are actually the old ceiling rafters packed up with more 4x2. They did this down the sides to avoid cutting the tie beams any further, but this is in the main floor area where the load is. One is probably because they hadn't invented joist hangers in 1975 (sarcasm) as it would have to hang off the chimney breast. The other has little excude as it goes past the chimney where there's a load bearing wall.

The loft hatch wasn't removed - they just built over it notching a perfectly good new 8x2 joist out. Sigh... But it's probably almost as strong as the loft hatch framing is well nailed and is holding the joist in part.

The best one was: Let's space all the joists at 450-500mm, which is a bit of a gap anyway. Now let's space 2 at 600mm. I don't think floorboards are going to like 600mm gaps. 500mm gaps will mean I'd better get some thicker than normal boards.

Looks like 3 extra 8x2 joists I'll have to put in for good measure...

Question: ========= Would 20mm be acceptable thickness for floorboards spanning 500mm? Not tongue and grooved - I need easy access, so plain boards only. Might be able to go to oak if that helps - seen some good prices on the internet.

Cheers

Tim

[Andrew Gabriel]

I suspect 18mm ply would be OK, but don't cut it down to plank widths.

[Tim S]

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

Sorry - should have been clearer - I'd like floorboards, as in planks, on show.

We hate carpets and it's good for servicing the building infrastructure (which all goes under the upstairs floor) to be able to lift bits of the floor without a lot of faffing. To this end, it'll all be screwed down.

After doing a bit of research, seems that 20mm or 3/4" is/was the standard for thicker boards. I suppose wide planks would help. If I get new wood, then the option to go for 25mm exist too.

I'll have a play with Superbeam later too - though my ability to drive it (and guess wood classes for reclaimed wood) are limited.

Cheers

Tim

[Owain]

Hope it's not too much like Crossroads (wobbly walls)

Owain

[Owain]

Guessed that

Guessed that

Mebbe. D'ye ken where all his cousins live, because one could be in the next street.

If the pub has cctv do a subject access request on it and youtube it up.

Owain

[The Medway Handyman]

Prisoner Cell Block H was the best for that :-)

[Tim S]

Owain coughed up some electrons that declared:

More like a rodent version of EastEnders - what with all the bodies under the floor ;->

[ARWadsworth]

seconds in

Adam