wiring a permanent extension cord from the wall

Nov 16, 2024 Last reply: 1 year ago 13 Replies

I am mounting a fixed bed headboard on the bedroom wall. It's going to cover the double socket which is required for bedside lamps etc. the headboard is fixed quite close to the wall, maybe 10mm off it, the gap being the thickness of the batten it hangs on, so there is no space for a plug to be left in the socket



I want to put a blanking plate over the patress box and bodge a round flexible cable out of the bottom of it to which I will connect a 'trailing' socket so I have like a power strip under the bed instead of the wall socket. A bit like a 'flex outlet' but afaics the item is not available to cover a double patress, which is why I will have to cut away either the plaster or the blanking plate to make do.



Since it's to be a permanent arrangement is there a way to do this 'by the book'? Would I maybe need a cable clamp of some kind in the wall? Should it be fused? will ordinary screw down cable connectors do the job?



TW


Forgot to mention the headboard is a padded, fabric covered piece of plywood, so flammable materials really, which is why I am mulling over the safety of my diy wiring behind it. TW

Unless you use 2.5mm flex then you should fit a fuse. Easily done with a CLICK minigrid fuse module, faceplate and a couple of blanks. They even do a flex outlet module but as it's not bottom entry it might not work for you.

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example parts are

CMA432 (2g plate with 3 apertures) MD047PW (fuse module) MD008PW (blank module)

Don't think a twin gang FCU exists, maybe fit a twin gang grid plate with a fuse module and a flex outlet module?

Not sure if any of the grid manufacturers produce a flex outlet that's downward facing, rather than front facing?

As this is an ‘out of sight, out of mind’ job, could it be mounted upside down to get bottom entry?

There are 'brush' outlet modules, which let cables exit via a flexible aperture - intended for A/V cables:

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But it doesn't give the cable any strain relief, so I'd want something to strain relieve the cable behind the brush.

Theo

As someone has already pointed out the ideal way would be a FCU but these are only 1 Gang. I think carefully prising out your existing double and replacing it with a single is going to be your easiest option and a little bit of filling the gaps is the answer. As it is out of sight and out of mind the filling does not necessarily need to be perfect if your plastering skills are not up to scratch.

Richard

No - it's front entry:-(

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Thinking bit laterally, where do the cables enter the existing socket? Of they run to the bottom of the backbox, then that would suggest the pass the location that you want your new socket.

In which case could yo chop in a new double back box lower down the wall, below the existing. Intercept the wires there to connect a new double socket, and disconnect the existing one. You can then blank it with a double blanking plate, or just fill it in, as you prefer.

Don't you think any of that could cause problems in a future electrical inspection? What about removing the existing socket and adding new sockets at either side of the bed? This would also provide better access for plugging and unplugging, disconnecting the lamps for bulb change etc.

If I /had/ to do something like that then I would probable enlarge the hole slightly and fit a /dual/ backbox instead of the double. e.g. Toolstation - Metal Back Box Dual 35mm - Product code: 36665

Then fit a switched fused spur with downward flex exit e.g. Amazon - "Click DP Switched Fused Spur 13A White PVC Flex Outlet"

hoping that it would fit alongside a single blanking plate. Self adhesive white trunking down to the skirting?

Thanks all. Thoughts are much clarified. I think I will wire in a spur to a surface mounted 2 gang socket 12" below the old one and cover the old box with a blanking plate. Then I can plug in whatever flexible extension I want.

TW

If there are two 2.5+e t&e running UP the wall to the existing backbox, and presumably inside a short length of 20mm plastic conduit, then how will you run an extra 2.5mm length out of the existing backbox ?. Presumably cut a suitable slot in the lower edge of the blanking plate ?.

Simply digging out the wall to allow a new flush mounted backbox lower down might be not much more work, then shortening the existing cables to suit the new location of the socket.

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