In message <rnguej$t28$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 11:46:26 on Fri, 30 Oct
2020, thescullster snipped-for-privacy@thesculls.karoo.co.uk> remarked:I'm using the pipe-cutter valve to empty the system, so that I can put a more conventional bleed-valve elsewhere.
The gate valve on a rad is only to balance the flow. Works fine for that. Although some these days are the same valve as you get with the TRV.
As has been mentioned the "proper" one that you fit should be at the lowest point on the system so that you can empty ground floor mains if necessary.
Phil
In message <rnhvi8$asj$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 21:11:37 on Fri, 30 Oct
2020, thescullster snipped-for-privacy@thesculls.karoo.co.uk> remarked:Yes, that's the plan; although strictly speaking the lowest point is under the floor, so the best I can do is just above that.
Not so critical then, also any additive in the system should keep it working.
In practice, you rarely need to drain down to the last drop. Just low enough to allow the removal of radiators for decorating etc. The boiler and bits are usually higher than the lowest rad too.
In message snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk>, at 11:18:26 on Sat, 31 Oct
2020, "Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> remarked:Yes, my boiler's upstairs. And I have no rads in the attic (you may laugh, but a loft conversion I did 15yrs ago was supposed to, however the builder chickened out and we had to use electric [oil filled] ones instead).
What left a bad taste in the mouth was he initially didn't allow anything off the bill for failing to do the wet plumbing and supply of rads, but charged "extra" for fitting the electric ones, which I had incidentally free issued to him.
Grade A plonker!
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