Tap problem

[Rob]

Got a problem with the kitchen HW tap - it turns about I complete turn and no water comes out. This happened all of a sudden. HW elsewhere works fine.

I can't seem to dismantle it - I removed the screw that would appear to attach the handle to the body but it seems stuck. It's been soaking in WD40 for about an hour. I don't understand why it has an insert for an allen key - I'm reluctant to apply to much force, although I have given the whole thing a tap with a hammer. Any ideas? I need to get the handle off the access the valve.

Plan B was to simply replace the whole tap assembly, but that's not looking good because it appears to have been welded to the pipes:

the muck around the tap fell out when I unscrewed the collar.

Thanks, Rob

[NOSPAMnet]

Treat yourself to a new tap. It's a monobloc . Turn the water off and disconnect the tails underneath and remove the nut holding the tap to the draining board/sink. When replacing you might consider flexible tails . If you don't want to replace the tap then removing it as I said would probably make it easier for you to take it apart when it is off the sink .

[John]

Not sure from photo that it is for an Allen Key - is the shaft hexagonal? (and maybe tapered) Perhaps someone else has a similar design. If it is a tapered hex shaft then a sharp hit from under the handle is needed.

[The Medway Handyman]

Does the collar unscrew enough for you to see a brass hexagon?

[Colin Wilson]

IIRC the monobloc we have in our kitchen has "screw-in" tails which are soldered lower down, so the OP may still not be able to remove them without chopping the pipework.

[NOSPAMnet]

Yeah I know . I'm assuming he knows how to deal with that . When I said " disconnect" I meant in any way appropriate :-)

[NOSPAMnet]

To me that is just a silly way to connect copper tails and gives no consideration to a need to remove it in the future .There is absolutely no way the a tap connected in that way can be removed easily . Instead of a soldered joint a comp'n should be used

[Rob]

Yes - a brass nut. But I don't think I've got a spanner slim enough.

Thanks for the other suggestions - but chopping pipe ain't going to happen! I was hoping it would just be a washer/new valve maybe - and I would have fitted a new tap assembly if it'd been easy.

The kitchen is due to replaced a round xmas, so I didn't want to spend too much time/money.

Rob

[Rob]

Yes - it is a hexagon, and it looks slightly tapered. It does seem to be pretty solidly in place.

Rob

[The Medway Handyman]

Thats what these are for

doesn't work on backnuts as per my review, but one of the side apertures should get in. Worth a try at £6:99.

[A.Lee]

Right, I changed the taps on exactly the same mixer yesterday. It looks like you have taken out the screw that holds the tap handle on

- yes? Now the tap handle shoudl pull off, if not, it will be slightly corroded, and will need a bit of tapping to release it. Once that is off, there is a 3/4-1" brass nut shaped collar. Undo this, and the whole tap will come out from the body.(obviously make sure the water has been turned off at this point) Once it is off, you will likely find that the large screw inside the body is worn so much, that it does not rise when the tap handle is turned. If so, then buy a pair of these from Screwfix:

They are a straight screw in, and should work without a fault. No need to remove the mixer body at all, and fixed with 2 new taps for £10. (that'll be a £30 consultation charge please!) Alan.

[Rob]

Splendid, thanks! I'm not sure if the tap will come off, but i'll give it another go/try the tool suggested by TMH.

We'll see if you've earned your money when/if it works :-)

Rob

[Rob]

All done. The handwheel was locked solid to the valve, and the Wickes multispanner couldn't be used - the 17mm spanner is in the middle of the tool making it necessary to have about 20cm of clearance. I can see it being useful at some point, so no regrets. I'd guess some sort of puller tool would be needed. So I sawed the taps off, removed the collars, unscrewed the old valves, replaced with new. 20 minutes all in, once I'd decided to saw.

As an aside, the tap kit is not listed in the Scewfix paper catalogue - they told me that they're rationalising their range.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Rob

[NOSPAMnet]

I still say you should have replaced the whole lot...LOL