I am having difficulty removing the posidrive screw that holds a Euro
Profile cylinder in place. The end of the screw is starting to become
Anyone had a similar experience?
What would be the best way of removing this screw?
On 7/22/2016 1:05 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Not helpful in your case, but a comment on the DIY FAQ.
This doesn't explicitly mention mole-type wrenches which are IMHO one of
the most effective tools for this at least on machine screws, although
it does talk about pliers and wire cutters.
The thing about the mole is that you can really graunch it tight,
forming a new positive key. And you are separating the "grip" and the
Indeed that is the case. I was going to try a left had drill bit
starting with a centre drill bit or maybe get some of these
I've not had to do this on a Euro Lock but have done so on many
(machine) screws over the years and that's use a very fine punch to
tap the screw round.
This works best when whatever the screw is mounted in is rigid (like
an engine block) so whilst your doors is probably 'soft' wood or uPVC,
there may be a lock plate over it that could help act as a support.
So, if you still have any screwdriver slot left (whatever the head
type), use a fine (1-2mm diameter) and possibly slightly angle tipped
punch held at as low an angle you can get and at 90 Deg to the axis of
the screw. If you can work a 'key' into the screw (by using the punch
to 'cut' a slight slot) and as near to the outside edge as possible
then you will get better torque.
Do this from as many different directions as possibly and at least two
I used this technique quite recently on a Stihl crankcase Torx socket
screw that had been stripped out because of poor usage (they hadn't
cleaned the socket out properly before inserting and using the tool).
I was able to cut a slight slot across the top of the screw with a
hacksaw (I have often used the Dremel with a cutting disk) and then
used the punch to get the screw loose.
Cheers, T i m
Something like these or can you suggest anything better?
I'd say 'yes', assuming you haven't already got most of those but even
if you only use a couple on this job, it'll be way cheaper than any
So, depending on the room you have around the head of the screw and
how deeply it may be countersunk I'd first use the smallest chisel bit
across the top left of the screw (say 10 O'clock) and hammering down
and left. Depending on how easy it is to hold the door you might even
start downwards at 9 O'clock (so you are hitting down the door not
across it. Then go over to 3 O'clock and do the same upwards.
If you can't get even the corner of the small chisel on the outer edge
of the screw head without digging into the surrounding metalwork, you
could try one of the flat punches on the 'edge' you may have just cut
with the chisel or a pointed punch at a great enough angle to get it
to grip into the screw, rather than slipping off.
Use as big a punch you can (stronger and more rigid) and keep good
pressure / grip of the punch against the screw before you give it a
tap (to try to stop it slipping).
Assuming you have a bench grinder you could always very gently (so it
doesn't get too hot, or quench it regularly in water) grind an angle
of about 30 degrees across the end of say the 3rd from right punch to
give you a bit more of an 'edge' to bite into the steel.Regular taps
in opposite directions should start things going.
If the frame isn't plastic you could try putting a heavy soldering
iron on the end of the screw (till you see smoke) as that might
release any locking agent used.
It's funny, with experience you learn to choose the right screwdriver
for the screw head (although you can still get it wrong first time)
and assuming it's not already been mullered by someone else, you can
get a feel of what effort might be needed before you turn it, de-cam
and do damage (as after that you have an even more difficult job of
My go-to crosshead screwdriver is a long Pozi No2 or (and often
surprisingly), the x-head bit on my Leatherman PST II.
Cheers, T i m
Thanks for your advice, the punches were not quite as small as I had
imagined, and not
quite pointed enough, but the screw came out with just a few taps of the
hammer. So thank your very much for your help. Just off to buy a new screw.
If you carefully drill off only the heads of the screws, and remove the
lock, there should be enough left of the screw to undo with pliers or a
mole grip. Once the screw is no longer under tension, it should come out
easily - unless corroded, etc.
*If at first you don't succeed, try management *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
On Fri, 22 Jul 2016 16:35:40 +0100, newshound wrote:
this might work
remove escutcheons on either side
with two adjustable spanners grip both ends of the cylinder
and break it in half by working it up and down
a 5mm hole drilled through the narrow part of
the cylinder (where the screw fits ) will make breaking it
new cylinder about £20 in B&Q
In my case my son wanted a euro removed that had a broken key in it, I
tried everything to loosen the screw to no avail so next stop was to
break the lock. One hard hit with a hammer and the lock bent slightly
but the screw then just gently screwed out, I didnt manage to salvage
the lock though.
Ebay may be cheaper for purchasing depending on the level of security
A few years ago I replaced my locks and next doors - they're identcal sizes.
Trouble is, the measurements seem to be unusual and not available from SF or
I had to buy them 'remotely' as it were and was rather nervous about the
supplier knowing my address and the numbers on the keys - ebay was not
I found some good locks of the correct size and then did as much as I could
to check the supplier. So far no-one has come in and tidied up out of
I'd have preferred a personal retail purchase so that I was anonymous - bit
paranoid I suppose.
No, not really. I did the same as you a few months ago, replacing all
the original eurolocks with antisnap ones.
I guess the company I bought them from over the internet wouldn't last 5
minutes if it became known there were break-ins associated with them
(insurance companies share claims data). But they do have the key "code"
data, of course, in case I need replacement or extra keys, and my
address. Caveat emptor, I suppose.
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