staining pine floorboards

Try one of the water based polyurethanes ie Boni Kemi/Jumkers Strong/Beckers, Ronseal Quickcure, as they are water based they don't colour like the spirit based.. Grumps

Yes - don't use diybanter.com :-)

A water-based product will be lighter than most other varnishes. Some darkening is inevitable.

BY FAR the best product to use is Rustin's Floorcoat. It's acid catalysed (you mix in a little pot of goop before starting) and _stinks_ when using it, but this goes away completely after a few hours. It is harder, better looking and much longer lasting than the competition. Use

I'll vouch for that, and it doesn't change the colour at all. I prefer to apply it with a rag to keep the mellow/just sanded look. Any varnish starts to look artificial if you allow it to build up on the surface.

I used a water based varnish in my childrens bedroom to avoid the smells and it was rubbish. After a couple or years there are great patches where the varnish has worn through. I am now stuck with revarnishing with oil based varnish which will look patchey or with waterbased and hope that it hides the patches and it wont last.

Kevin

I don't think water borne acrylics have progressed to the point where where you can get a hard finish at room temperature. The big furniture manufacturers can do it, but they have a controlled environment. All the water based varnishes I've seen are soft and plasticky looking, and your Ronseal solvent based polyurethane isn't too long lasting either. The acid catalysed system already referred to is the way to go if you only want to do the job once.

Just a note on pine floorboards--don't ever allow anyone to wear those spikey highhealed shoes. Takes ages to "iron" out the dents.

Why not? Doesn't NTL allow you to use it?

It messes up the threading and quoting.