Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock 24quid Chubb 3G114E mortice deadlock with microswitch 65quid
That had better be a helluva microswitch for 40quid. I'm guessing I can buy the cheapie and fit a microswitch to save cash, anyone tried this on Chubb or any other?
Can you fit a switch in the hole where the bolt goes?
There are some problems with that:
I've just checked it out with my local locksmith and it looks feasible but I may have to drill a couple of fixing holes. Microswitches are an optional fitment for this model so I reckon the lockcase is bigger to make room.
I decided to buy the locks from the locksmith too, more expensive than online, but no postage and he gave freely of his time without any guarantee of my business. If anyone needs a locksmith in Glasgow I'll post his details.
Why is that a problem? Just curious.
If I configure it in the most basic way, the alarm will be disabled when the lock is unlocked and the switch is released. If the switch is in the pocket in the door jamb and the door was jemmied, the switch would release and . . . . . . disable the alarm :-/. ie break-in disables alarm.
Actually, for a switch in the lock, it is operated (not released) when the lock is unlocked, but the contacts are changeover so I can configure it as I like.
I think the idea is that if it's used to turn on/off the alarm, you don't want the alarm to turn off if the door is jemmied :)
I see, thanks. I'm used to even more basic configurations where opening the door merely starts a timer and further action is required to disable the alarm.
"fred" wrote | 1. The switch will be used as a final setting switch for an alarm. | If it is in the lock case the switch will only release when the key | is used but if it's in the bolt pocket it would also release if the | door is jemmied.
That should be irrelevant as the final set confirm switch should be completely independent of the detection loop and should only set the alarm, not unset it or disable the detection loop. It sounds like you are wiring it as a shunt switch instead, which used to be the way to do it until ACPO released guidance on final set confirm switches and more panels became available with the facility.
A final set switch should be a non-latching push button wired to the final set input on the panel and outside the protected area.
Owain
In article , Mike Barnes writes
The idea is to get it sounding early to discourage entry. There'll be a shock sensor on the door frame too for an early trip and a v loud sounder right by the door, again to discourage entry. Arming off the lock means there's no excuse for (the tenants) not setting the alarm. It's a 2nd storey flat so the door is the most likely entry point.
I'm not quite clear then how it would be any better than a much more simple to wire and hide magnetic reed switch in the door?
...
Evidently not that episode. Pray remind us?
(My favourite was the one set in 'England': in this case not a misnomer for Britain, as it featured a crossing into Wales, via a rather formidable looking border checkpoint. :-)
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 19:14:35 GMT, fred strung together this:
Which wouldn't unset the alarm if the switch is connected and programmed as a PTS switch. It would set the alarm when the door is locked but wouldn't do anything if it was consequently opened\closed. A seperate entry zone would have to be triggered to do this.
I'm assuming it's a switch in the door frame that's acted on by the locking bolt. A reed switch would only show door closed (or slighty open) but couldn't discriminate between locked/unlocked. A switch on the locking action would mean the door is both closed and locked.
In article , fred writes
Thanks for all the replies (although nobody answered the question :-).
To clarify:
Correct, this is not a final set switch, it will actually be used to enable/disable the alarm. Yes, I am aware that this is not ideal, but better than a fitted alarm that is never set because it is too much hassle. For info, alarm will arm on open circuit condition so cutting the wire would arm the system.
Proprietary solutions such as reeds and magnets are no go as this is a property occupied by tenants so simple and non optional arming is best.
The switch will be mounted in the body of the lock itself and will be activated by the internal mechanism of the lock, therefore making it relatively secure from tampering.
The switch has nothing to do with triggering the alarm, only setting; other sensors, including conventional door contacts will be used to trigger the alarm.
The info I was/am looking for is the precise location in the lockcase that the switch is fitted by the manufacturer and the model of microswitch they use eg V3, V4 etc as I have to buy the parts before I get the lock in my hand. Fortunately I can buy a selection of wire ended lever action types (I know that much) and determine the precise position when the lock arrives. At the moment I am guessing that V3 will be too big so a flimsy V4 it will have to be.
Thanks
It might not be that simple... A look here would suggest that the levers and thrower are different between the two.
Ignore that, obviously can't read today :(
Lee
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