Repairing a keypad for an intruder alarm

Jan 02, 2011 13 Replies

Some of the keys on the remote keypad for my Citadel XR2 intruder alarm are getting difficult to use and I don't think the keypads are still available. It's a standard rubber membrane keypad over a PCB; is there any way to repair these? If not, is it a standard interface (marked as



0V, 13V, Comms, Sound, tamper x2) so that other types would work?

Dave


I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was working. I can't recall the company but I don't think they were stupidly expensive. you would have to bodge it on top of the defunct one. If you want to go down that route email me directly and I'll make a few enquiries from ex colleagues to find the supplier.

Bob

Or you can take apart the existing pad and clean the contacts and the black conductive dot on the back of each button. That usually gives you another few years in which to contemplate the inevitable.

Skipweasel laid this down on his screen :

That is what I would try first - they are a similar design to a TV/video remote control buttons. Several interlocking fingers of PCB track, gold plated and shorted by the button when pressed. Give the gold tracks a good rub with a pencil (not pen) eraser, to clean them and maybe wash the buttons with warm soapy water.

Thanks Bob, I hope it won't come to that but I'll bear it in mind.

Dave

I did that a few years ago (I also changed the alarm code to use virgin keys) but now the "set" key seems to be beyond redemption. I suppose I could add an external switch for "set" but the other pads are getting a bit flaky so I don't think that's worth doing.

I find the abrasive nature of a pen eraser works rather better - but of course you have to avoid being an arse and going over the top.

A bit of Veroboard with a bunch of the top sort listed here...

formatting link
't take long to patch together, and you could spot-wire them into the existing board. An hour or two, tops. Mount the whole lot in a smart box and you're still considerably cheaper than buying new kit.

15 quid, but take a look at this:

formatting link

I've seen it suggested that rubbing a very soft pencil over the rubber pads may replace enough graphite to restore the conductivity, but I've never tried it and don't know how long it might last. I guess graphite paint ("dag") might also work, if it didn't crack.

I wonder how crucial the conductivity is? Could you just glue on some "silver paper" or if that's too conductive, bits of the conductive bags PCBs come in?

Chris

Hi Seems the Citadel is a similar beast to the old ADE G3 probably a clone. Good news is G3 keypads are still available . Search for Optima G3 RKP. I might even have one in my junk box ,will check and repost. HTH CJ

Thanks for that! Mine looks identical to an 8EP219, which has apparently been replaced by an 8EP416 ... but the pad repair kit someone else suggested is tempting

Now that's very tempting! Someone else gave me a hint about what to search for and it seems that my RKP is an 8EP219, but that's apparently been replaced by an 8EP416 - if I can't find a cheap replacement I'll try the pad repair route.

The 8EP219 arrived today, fixes to the wall with the same screw holes and works perfectly. I feel a bit of a wuss for not trying the paint to repair the old one but the case was looking a bit scruffy so replacing the whole thing was a good option. Thanks for the info that led me to finding who the OEM was. Another tick for uk.d-i-y

Dave

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required