Repairing a keypad for an intruder alarm

Some of the keys on the remote keypad for my Citadel XR2 intruder alarm are getting difficult to use and I don't think the keypads are still available. It's a standard rubber membrane keypad over a PCB; is there any way to repair these? If not, is it a standard interface (marked as

0V, 13V, Comms, Sound, tamper x2) so that other types would work?

Dave

Reply to
NoSpam
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I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was working. I can't recall the company but I don't think they were stupidly expensive. you would have to bodge it on top of the defunct one. If you want to go down that route email me directly and I'll make a few enquiries from ex colleagues to find the supplier.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Or you can take apart the existing pad and clean the contacts and the black conductive dot on the back of each button. That usually gives you another few years in which to contemplate the inevitable.

Reply to
Skipweasel

Skipweasel laid this down on his screen :

That is what I would try first - they are a similar design to a TV/video remote control buttons. Several interlocking fingers of PCB track, gold plated and shorted by the button when pressed. Give the gold tracks a good rub with a pencil (not pen) eraser, to clean them and maybe wash the buttons with warm soapy water.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Thanks Bob, I hope it won't come to that but I'll bear it in mind.

Dave

Reply to
NoSpam

I did that a few years ago (I also changed the alarm code to use virgin keys) but now the "set" key seems to be beyond redemption. I suppose I could add an external switch for "set" but the other pads are getting a bit flaky so I don't think that's worth doing.

Reply to
NoSpam

I find the abrasive nature of a pen eraser works rather better - but of course you have to avoid being an arse and going over the top.

Reply to
Skipweasel

A bit of Veroboard with a bunch of the top sort listed here...

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't take long to patch together, and you could spot-wire them into the existing board. An hour or two, tops. Mount the whole lot in a smart box and you're still considerably cheaper than buying new kit.

Reply to
Skipweasel

15 quid, but take a look at this:

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Reply to
Bob Eager

I've seen it suggested that rubbing a very soft pencil over the rubber pads may replace enough graphite to restore the conductivity, but I've never tried it and don't know how long it might last. I guess graphite paint ("dag") might also work, if it didn't crack.

I wonder how crucial the conductivity is? Could you just glue on some "silver paper" or if that's too conductive, bits of the conductive bags PCBs come in?

Chris

Reply to
chrisj.doran

Hi Seems the Citadel is a similar beast to the old ADE G3 probably a clone. Good news is G3 keypads are still available . Search for Optima G3 RKP. I might even have one in my junk box ,will check and repost. HTH CJ

Reply to
cj

Thanks for that! Mine looks identical to an 8EP219, which has apparently been replaced by an 8EP416 ... but the pad repair kit someone else suggested is tempting

Reply to
NoSpam

Now that's very tempting! Someone else gave me a hint about what to search for and it seems that my RKP is an 8EP219, but that's apparently been replaced by an 8EP416 - if I can't find a cheap replacement I'll try the pad repair route.

Reply to
NoSpam

The 8EP219 arrived today, fixes to the wall with the same screw holes and works perfectly. I feel a bit of a wuss for not trying the paint to repair the old one but the case was looking a bit scruffy so replacing the whole thing was a good option. Thanks for the info that led me to finding who the OEM was. Another tick for uk.d-i-y

Dave

Reply to
NoSpam

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