I just want to connect locally to a light switch, not route everything through a cloud server which may not be there next year (looking at you, Google)!
I do not require to be able to work the light switch when away from home. [Although that is an interesting concept if you have security concerns.]
Your spoken command goes half way round the world to be "understood" by alexa or google, which sends back a command to your local device to turn the light on, some devices require a hub, others just use a normal google/amazon smart speaker, if you want full local control without the cloud, you'll need a local device such as HomeAssistantYellow or HubitatElevation
That reminded me of my childhood bedroom, where the only electrical 'outlet' in the room was the light fitting dangling from the centre of the ceiling. It ended up having a whole Christmas tree of adaptors plugged into it, plus a dangling pendant switch.
I think all the app ones work over the internet to some extent. I know the £3 ones they sold in Poundland a few months back were a bit flaky at losing their wifi signal.
If you want privacy then a direct wireless switch would probably be simpler
In the old days, they made a key-fob transmitter, and a wall-outlet receiver. The transmitter just sends a pulse at the garage door frequency, to turn the light on and off. No Alexa. No microphones. No Internet Connection.
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In terms of packaging, they also make the same gadget, but in terms of wall-mountable items. The lamp can be on one side of the room. A "rocker light switch" looking thing, can be located on the other side of the room. You wire mains to the rocker switch, to deliver
50mW to the transmitter in the rocker switch. This eliminates the need for coin cells in the key fob. Instead of the key fob, there is a light-switch looking thingy, that sits next to your bed. That's not very flexible though, as you can walk around with the key-fob. But you can also lose the key-fob, or the battery in the key fob can go dead. This is a "remote light switch", the difference being, that no wire has to run between the two units, but, both units need mains power, where ever you locate the item(s).
Leviton RF - - -> Leviton Wall-Plate Receiver --> Lamp Remote Module ^ ^ | | Mains power Mains power
The BSR X-10 in the old days, used to communicate with remote wall-mount modules, via power wire signaling. That's another way to do it, without an RF component. The receiving module likely had an "address" (DIP switches), so that one controller, could control multiple lamps through out the house. One of my friends had his place entirely lighted with these. Just nuts.
X-10 X-10 --> Lamp Controller Module ^ | ^ | v | Mains power - power-line-signaling - - > Mains power
But with Google, it can be hard to find some of these older, less sophisticated concepts.
if you get a smartplug 'preflashed' with Tasmota Software, then you can control it locally with some Android apps, or your web browser etc. I guess Theo will be along shortly to tell you more,
I recently bought a couple of Athom smartplugs from aliexpress for < £20, eg:
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There's a process to set them up on your home network and configure IP address etc.
You can also control these with Home Assistant if yuou were to go down this route at some point.
Just realised that my original plan to replace the wall switch with a remote control switch has one major flaw. Most (single way) light switches are one wire in and one wire out. They just switch the live (I think) from the light fitting. As such current will only flow with the switch turned on. Remote control light switches seem to need live and neutral to the switch (not unreasonably). I was looking for a solution which didn't involve any rewiring. I don't fancy channelling out the wall and also lifting the floor in the loft to upgrade the wiring.
I assume I could look at a remote control light fitting which has the wall switch permanently on to provide power.
There seem to be loads of LED light fitting replacements which come with a remote control. There is nothing to say that they won't just fit in standard wiring - a ceiling rose (my very rusty memory) should have power in plus switched in out. Has anyone used one of these?
Most seem to be garish Chinese and may not have replaceable bulbs.
We used one for our granddaughter's bedroom when she stayed with us. Got it from Wilkos (bayonet or E27 fitting). It had many colours, and could cycle through them or dim/brighten as required. But it was really more of a nightlight as it wasn't bright even when fully on in white.
Or a long stick by the side of the bed with which to poke the switch on the wall. It's how I used to change channels on my push-button TV before they invented remote control.
I have a cheap chinese LED light fitting (approx £14) which is a 280 cm diameter panel type, with no changeable LED bulb, that just need the two wires from a ceiling rose* and it has a remote control.
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with blue backlight strip
The remote can switch between 3 colour temperatures of 3000K, 4000K and
6000K and some intermediate steps, and can dim the light.
If the pre-existing wall switch is left in the on position the remote can be used to turn off/on the light. When the light is switched off, either by the remote or via the wall light switch, the previous settings of colour temperature and brightness are remembered.
In my application I don't use the remote and switch the light on/off in the conventional way with the wall light switch.
The remote is cheap and nasty/flimsy but works.
There is no room for a connection if an existing ceiling rose is left in place so it has to be moved to some kind of junction box stuffed above a ceiling. My light is a surface mounted light fixing. A fixing bracket is mounted to the ceiling and the panel slides into the bracket.
One gotcha with this light is that you will possibly need some heat shrink over the in-line connector they supply and/or over your connection to the ends of the bare wires to the light fitting. There is a short length of cable moulded into the light fitting for the mains connection.
Other brands have a better connection scheme but may also require an existing ceiling rose to moved to an above ceiling junction box.
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