Every concealed cistern I have seen is a rip off. Best I found was at
Grahams - around forty quid (IIRC) - though most seem to be up at seventy
As far as I can tell they all use the same standard flush pipes as any
I am thinking of using a conventional porcelain cistern instead (as we
shall have one available anyway and have enough space for it). For the life
of me I cannot see why not. Anyone got any good reasons?
I've installed a Thomas Dudley "Vantage" in my place. The main reason
for choosing this model was the front access panel. If you use a
normal ceramic cistern, consider carefully how you'll gain access to
its innards when you need to.
Points in its favour:
- Front (and top) access panels
- Light touch push button
- Very fast flush (important when there's only 6 litres)
- Silent, quick Torbeck valve
- Plastic button (Grohe Dal has much nicer chromed brass)
- Non-standard flush pipe (50mm narrowing down to standard 38mm)
It is expensive when you think that it's just a simple plastic
moulding compared to ceramic, but there is a more complex pneumatic
flush valve. Cost was about 80 from PlumbCenter IIRC. There was a
fault on mine where the button had an air leak. The manufacturers were
excellent in resolving this, and I'm completely happy with performance
of the cistern. Others on this group have recommended the MultiKwik.
Also check out the Grohe Dal if you can afford it (about 100 quid).
BTW I've no connection with Thomas Dudley
If it's a low level cistern (not closed coupled) then yes you can buy
one from wickes for less than 20 quid. I did this with my Heritage
pan. A cistern from them would have been 80 pounds or more. If it's
close coupled then I suspect that a cheap cistern would fit. Try it
They all seem to use the same weird size of pipe for the connection. Not
quite 40mm, but close. As you can buy the flush pipe as a separate generic
item, I strongly suspect most cisterns would work with most pans.
Fascinating. I've always wondered why people didn't put cisterns in the
loft space, because the potential energy should make for a really good
flush with not much water.
* What's an "F&E" tank?
* What bore does the flush pipe need to be? Is it possible to bury it
in the wall or do you need to make a "feature" of it?
* How much does an electric flush cost and where can they be bought?
* What about electrical safety?
* Presumably during a power cut you make use of the reserve flush
mechanism (plastic bucket).
Hmm, I always imagined that cisterns had a direct relationship in
terms of size to what the toilet bowl could handle.
Whenever I've seen a blockage of a toilet it appears to have been the
case that the quantity of water in the cistern is roughly equivalent
to the quantity that the toilet bowl can handle. That is, flush when
at the lowest water level and the cistern empties completely before
the bowl overflows.
And I assumed that there must be a calculation which suggests that a
certain quantity of water passes thru the toilet outflow so as to
guarantee that the waste has been fully pushed thru the system by the
Apart from those mysterious little floaters that sometimes refuse to
get flushed away that is..... ;)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.