Powerline adaptors

I'm beginning to think it's not worth the effort! My ability and experience of these things is minimal, and if something goes wrong I don't necessarily know how to correct or undo it.

I don't often feel the need to use IPlayer, and if I do I can always resort to my computer, which seems to run it OK.

No idea. But the Network name that is the same as my new Hub has a padlock against it suggesting to me that it can't be modified or changed. I don't see where or how to unlock it. Would it be in the hub rather than in the TV? Would it being locked explain why I don't see the options you mention below?

Again, no idea. To make life difficult for scammers, perhaps?

I can view the network setup screen but don't see 'automatic address allocation' listed, let alone how to change it.

I don't understand what the 'correct WiFi point' would be or how to access and correct it if indeed it is wrong.

I can see no place where the WiFi password was requested or set up in the first place. WiFi is simply either 'on' or 'off'. It is 'on' ATM.

As you can see, I need to be led by the hand/nose to do what you suggest! I don't feel the need to access IPlayer very often, and I think I might as well access it via my computer, which seems to work OK. See my recent reply to RJH.

But thanks for trying!

Or that it is a secure connection

Oh. Sometimes you have to log in as a 'root' user to change some TV parameters. password is usually 0000

I don't see where or how to unlock it. Would it be in the hub

Then that is your problem There is another setup screen somewhere that you cant/havent accessed. RTFM?

I feel your pain! It's probably not *that* hard - a case of plodding through the guidance. And you can always reset the TV if it does bugger up.

Well, anything internet connected will be unavailable (C4, ITV, apps etc). Looks to be a decent TV connected-wise. Ironic :-)

That is my interpretation. It means that the TV can see the hub, but it can't work through the hub because the TV hasn't been provided with the hub's wifi password. That is what "limited connection means.

If you use an ethernet wire from the TV to the hub, you wouldn't need the wifi password. That is your simplest solution. However if a wired connection isn't possible, the wifi should work, provided the TV is set up properly for it.

The network set-up gives the choice of wifi on or off. When you set the wifi to ON it should have asked you for SSID and password. The SSID is the address you have identified as your hub/router and when you tell it the appropriate SSID it should then ask for the router password. Write them on a piece of paper exactly how they are shown on the router details, so that you have then handy.

You have done everything backwards, setting the wifi but leaving the TV to hunt for possibles connections. You will need to undo that. So. Set wifi to OFF. Save everything and turn the TV off, including at the mains. Leave it off for 10 minutes. In that 10 minutes, look at what the manual tells you what to do. If it does explain wifi set-up, either in the User Manual or the Quick Set-up Guide, then follow the manual.

If not: Turn the TV back on now it has had time to unset everything. Go back into the Network Settings screen and turn wifi on. Then look at the screen carefully. There should be somewhere where you enter the SSID, and once that is entered look for anything that seems to be worded that it wants the SSID password. Make sure you use upper and lower case exactly as the details on the hub show. Once you have entered that, make sure that DHCP is set to ON (or AUTO) as well. If the TV offers you a SAVE button, make sure you use it, or the TV probably won't remember your settings. You might have to put the TV into Standby (the on/off button on the remote does that) and then turn it on again to actually use the wifi connection you set up. Different TV makes do things differently, hence the "IFs" and "MIGHTs" above. You can see your TV and I can't.

Good luck.

I found this on youtube. That might help.

It normally means that the wifi is password protected, as all access points should be. You shouldn't see any names here without the padlock.

Where you have a list of wifi names, it may be a matter of using the remote control's up/down buttons to scroll to yours, then either the right button or OK, normally the centre button.

You should then be asked for the wifi password. There are different types of encryption, but these days clients can normally work out the correct one.

Very many thanks for those detailed instructions. I have printed them out and will read, mark, learn and inwardly digest them, and see how I get on.

If all else fails, I can always run a CAT-5 cable through the loft. The cable and end connectors are not expensive.

It's making the correct wire connections when you fit the plugs that is the tricky bit. I believe that a wired connection is the only real answer. Buy a good crimper, it makes a difference. Odd that that Amazon ad. does not mention a crimper for the plugs.

I would avoid that particular type of cable. It uses copper clad aluminium wires which tend to be unreliable. Look for pure copper instead. It will cost a bit more. John

The tool to connect the connectors to the cable, however, is.

Try and use an RJ45 wall plate that takes punched-down CAT 5

I spent so much time trying to crimp connectors to patch cables that it was a no brainer to simply buy them pre made in bulk and save a small fortune

Patch cables are stranded cable. CAT 5 building wiring is solid core and easy to punch down. Even electricians can be trained to do it. Most of the time.

You should not attempt to put RJ45 plugs on solid core wire ...nor use solid core wire unless its nailed down and cannot move.

Just buy back boxes and ethernet plates...

solid al is OK for punched down connections

I havce to say that, as an experienced electronics person of many years, I never ever have found that a hand held crimping tool works as advertised on small diameter wires.

In my limited amateur experience, it does, on about the 30th attempt. With a scattering of failed connectors strewn about on the floor, and they can't be re-used. But the effort is worth it. I used to have a WiFi CCTV camera in my garage, but the WiFi was flaky. I eventually this year got a proper cable installed, and now the connection is as solid as a rock. The cable had to be pulled from a spool rather than using a patch cord.

The trick that finally did it is 'passthrough' RJ45 plugs, which are easier to attach correctly than regular ones. The tool looks like this:

Although this sounds like a lot of palaver compared with just getting to grips with the TV wifi settings - YMMV of course. I suppose you could take the TV closer to the router (or the router closer to the TV) to confirm if it's really wifi signal problems.

Theo

I've not generally had problems putting RJ45 plugs onto UTP. I do try and make sure I have the right connectors, i.e. specifically for flexible or solid wire. I have quite a houseful of DIY patch leads now and after many years they're all still working and most of them are running Gigabit connections (I've checked them). I do test them with a simple tester before putting them into service. I get the occasional failure (at the time of making them) but I think more than

I did one just today as I needed a patch lead about 6 metres long and while I was a bit slow doing it as I haven't made one for quite a while, it was good first time and is in use already.

Being able to make leads exactly the right length makes leads tidier and, of course, it's easier to poke a wire without a plug on it through small holes.

I generally prefer using punch-down connectors whenever possible, although I have had good results with pass-through RJ45s that are specifically rated for solid core wire. Even punch-down connections can fail to make contact if the insulation is particularly tough and smears over the copper. This seems to happen more with outdoors rated cable with xlpe or polypropylene insulation. Always test. I have a cheap Chinese time domain reflectometer which has saved me a great deal of time. Even the very cheap dc continuity testers are a lot better than no testing. John

The transmitting laser could have a back-facet monitor. Those were sometimes used for closed loop feedback on the laser.

I don't know how best to pick off a signal on the receiver. If you split the receive signal in two, that would be a degradation of your receive sensitivity, so you would not do that. Picking off the AGC voltage could give some level, but it's unlikely the calibration is all that good. And the reach on the thing, 10km, pretty impressive. I would not be sticking the TX of that in my eyeball :-)

Seems a bit of a wet finger in the air. But definitely good enough for a fibre connection in the neighbourhood, which likely has lots of margin. To be honest with you, I don't remember the accuracy spec on the optical power meter (a cheap handheld). According to ISO9000, the meter was likely supposed to be calibrated yearly, but I doubt it ever had that done. We would use that for detecting yet another ruined patch cord :-)

Paul

"Panasonic Viera Wi Fi Setup Tutorial"

"PLEASE DO NOT PHONE THE STORE SALE LINE FOR HELP WITH THIS MATTER. We welcome you into the store for advice however it is too time consuming for the store staff to be talking this process through on the phones. You may of course try the Panasonic UK support line who have dedicated staff to help with this matter.

If you are a customer of the Panasonic Store Southampton, we may be able to arrange a timed call to help you through the connection/troubleshooting process at a quieter time."

How you know your setup procedure sucks. This isn't the first product that has caused a line to form around the corner at the store.

It does seem in the video, there is a "Change Settings", so if anything on the router side has changed, you can attempt to re-connect the TV. And they recommend 2.4GHz band.

One other thing a Google showed, is the vast array of Panasonic products that use Wifi. Imagine standing in the line at the store, to figure out how to connect your air conditioner to the Wifi. Wouldn't ON and OFF be enough ?

Paul