Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?
Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a
bath resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering
ply. Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a
rodding eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the
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Many shower wastes have parts that can be pulled out from the top for
cleaning, leaving the pipe opening exposed for cleaning out. Access from
below is only required when fitting, sorting a leak or replacing - which
I hope won't be necessary, but would simply mean that I cut a hole in
the ceiling directly below and then fitted one of the small, plastic,
access hatches or made good and repapered that ceiling.
I've never quite understood why the excellent idea I saw in a hotel many
years ago is not done. The whole thing was hinged and had easy to detach
hose connections, so cleaning the trap and all that was easy. around the
edge was some stuff like that you get around double glazed windows and doors
if it perishes you shove in a new lot.
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On Mon, 13 May 2019 11:28:32 +0100, newshound wrote:
I'm changing to no trap inside and a waterless trap outside (having tested
it at low temperature to make sure that it doesn't freeze shut). I'll use
black pipe, to resist UV, with about a foot of black downpipe to cover the
If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it ought
not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for the basic
framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if its a stone
resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and cement -
probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.
When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with silicone,
and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray. Then tiling /
boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave a 1/4" gap, to
later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead ensures it will get
good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small amount of movement.
Sounds good - thanks
I was thinking of getting a 1700mm tray and that would need chopping into
the wall as is the bath it is replacing, The space is about 1680mm. I am
now thinking this is additional work for no real benefit and am now
thinking of a 1600mm tray. This will leave a small gap to be dealt with.
Do you think it is a better way? Any thoughts on the "gap"
Chopping a bath into the wall can be worthwhile - its a way of making a
lighter weight acrylic bath far more rigid. For a shower tray there is
no real advantage unless you need to do it to squeeze in a slightly
It sounds like you will end up with 80mm of gap. The tiles (depending on
type) could take up say 30mm, which leaves at least a couple of inches.
So perhaps some 1" deep battens on the end walls, and a sheet of
aquapanel or hardibacker fixed to them to bring the walls out to the
(that might amount to more work that chopping the tray in 10m on each end!)
Slightly more awkward to handle, but still doable IMHO. Use much the
Chop out a bit higher than needed for the height of the tray. plus a
little more at the front.
Mix your screed and lay it on the ply. get it roughly level. Lay a
couple of lengths of 15mm plastic pipe in the screed running front to
back - they want to be the depth of the tray and another 4 to 6 inches
long. With help (for that sized tray), offer the back of the tray on the
edge of the platform - the pipes will take the weight and keep it clear
of the screed. Now lower the front and slide it back into position - it
slides easily on the pipe. Finally pull out the pipe to drop it on the
screed, slap a level on it and tap it home with a rubber hammer etc.
A bit more of a pain - since once the tray is in place you will need to
make good the plaster etc down to the top of the tray, and that will
lock it in place. However there is no real need to get it out in one
piece, and with stone resin trays its easy enough to break the edges off
with a quick clomp from a hammer. So the centre bit of tray can come
out, and then you can pull the edges free.
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