Paint stripping

In message , TMC writes

V-e-r-y s-l-o-w-!

regards

In my 'old days' a blow torch, primus type was the only thing that really did the business. I believe a hot air gun is actually much easier, safer and effective. Careful what you inhale.

Tim W

I have found that a hot air gun is only satisfactory indoors, out doors the slightest breeze seems to render them infective. I prefer a gas one operated off a large re-fillable bottle.

Have got a hot air gun as it will be for indoor use only

Anyone have experience of the B & Q own brand paint stripper at £30 for 5 litres (the nitromors being £33 for 2 litres!!!)

In article , TMC writes

C1900 woodwork here mainly with thick brittle paint on[1]. I use the hot air gun method with a lot of ventilation, hand and breathing protection and then clean off the residue using wire wool and paint stripper. It's a while since I bought stripper but on a pro recommendation I used Nitromors Craftsmans mix (yellow tin) which does not have the goop of regular stuff (it's a very slightly thickened liquid) and was about

Now that I've used the thin stuff I wont go back to stuff with goop so wouldn't be inclined to use the B&Q stuff. I did try before and it would prob be ok for just removing post gun residue but don't know about using it for anything more.

If you have to leave stripper on for a while to penetrate a few layers then apply pvc cling film (marked as suitable for all foods) over the top to reduce evaporation of volatiles.

The chaep stripper is lime in wallpaper paste. Lime attacks the paste if you put too much lime in.

NT

It's essential the hot air gun is *hot*. Wire wool is excellent for getting into the detail too.

If you want to go the chemical route, it might be worth talking to