"Brian G" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net... | Beemer wrote: | > "Brian G" wrote in message | > news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net... | >> Beemer wrote: | >>> "Brian G" wrote in message | >>> news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net... | >>>> Beemer wrote: | >>>>> My Black & Decker hot air paint stripper is rated at 2kW but for | >>>>> me this is way too cool for paint stripping. I have to hold the | >>>>> gun way too long before the paint starts to ripple. I'm | >>>>> suspecting that they have limited the temperature so that they do | >>>>> not have customer liability problems where there is paint | >>>>> including lead. | >>>>>
| >>>>> This model has temperature control which I assume is Triac | >>>>> controlled. Its an easy matter for me to bypass the Triac but I | >>>>> would appreciate comments. | >>>>>
| >>>>> Beemer | >>>>
| >>>> Beemer, | >>>>
| >>>> Forgive me for being a little blunt. But if you are stripping your | >>>> bargeboards, then you really are using the wrong tool! | >>>>
| >>>> A hot air stripper up a ladder, in the open air and at roof level | >>>> is useless, go and get a decent gas (or even the 'ancient | >>>> paraffin' ) blowlamp with the correct (IIRC a fishtail) nozzle and | >>>> learn how to use it by practising on an old piece of painted | >>>> timber. | >>>>
| >>>> Once you've learned the technique, the paint will literally 'fly | >>>> off' in reasonable strips with little or no heat damage to the | >>>> timber. | >>>>
| >>>> Brian G | >>>>
| >>> Brian, | >>>
| >>> Yes I have decided to renovate the bargeboards instead of replacing | >>> them with larch which was my original intention. Your suggestion | >>> about the blowlamp is wise but I also confirm Andrew's concern about | >>> the risk. On a side issue my father although not a tradesman had | >>> several blowlamps. One of these was a pint size petrol model which | >>> today gives me the creeps when I think that I as an 11 years old boy | >>> used to fill and play with! Even the noise from its burner was | >>> frightening. | >>>
| >>> I had an older fixed temperature heat gun with a lower wattage and I | >>> think it had a greater heat output than the new temperature | >>> controlled one I have now. I'll cut out the controller today and | >>> see the result. Unfortunately its raining again! | >>>
| >>> Beemer | >>
| >> Beemer, | >>
| >> I cannot seem to find Andrew's post where he is expressing "concern | >> about the risks" but in my opinion it is far more dangerous to be | >> playing with what is literally an electric 'hair dryer' on a ladder | >> at height (presuming you are working on a two or more storey | >> property) - than using a simple gas or *PARAFFIN* powered blow lamp! | >>
| >> For a start, you will not get enough heat from the gun to loosen the | >> paint due to the various wind and convected air-currents floating | >> around the wall and roof - and if you have to 'doctor' the gun by | >> "cutting the controller" to get more heat, then that really makes my | >> point! | >>
| >> This in effect makes the job harder and longer, giving rise to the | >> situation where you will try and overstretch on the ladder to get | >> more done in the 'same session' with its obvious dangers... even so | >> called 'professionals' have been caught out doing this. | >>
| >> But, if you wish to take the risk... then good luck to you, as you | >> seem to lead a charmed life on roofs and ladders :-) | >>
| >> Brian G | >
| > Brian, | >
| > Heat gun impossible to cutout the heat controller as the air flow | > control is also connected/controlled through the heat controller pcb. | > Andrew was warning about setting bird's nests alight which I realise | > is a real risk. | | Beemer, to put this into perspective. | | After dealing solely with housing repairs for around 34 years (on the tools | and as a foreman), I have never seen birds nests set alight with blow lamp - | and have only heard first hand, of one fire - and that was in a first floor | box-frame window - these were always damned troublesome! | | I was talking to this painter some time after this incident and he said he | was stripping this window, knocked off for his morning break and was | flabbergasted on his return half an hour later to see this big, red fire | engine by the front door of the house with a fireman up a ladder pulling the | window apart. | | The investigation apparently found that a piece of burning paint had dropped | into a pile of waste on the window cill, flared up and set light to the dry | timber of the window - result one rollicking for the painter for not | checking for this hazard (an incident he is still reminded of some twenty | five years after it happened), a new window for the house and a small | insurance claim from the tenants for their redecoration costs - and five | cups of tea for the firemen :-) | | > I had thought about taking the bargeboards down but I would really | > need a scaffold rather than my 2x18ft ladder. The ladder is another | > problem. As I live on a windy hill I decided that an aluminium | > extension ladder was too light so I bought a professional ladder. | > It is very heavy and on the limit for me handling. The problem | > comes when I fit the standoff to protect the cederwood siding above | > and below my windows. The standoff can only be fitted by putting | > the ladder at the correct extension, reversing it, fitting the | > standoff, reversing it then wiggling the ladder into position. | > Moving across the bargeboard means standing the ladder vertical and | > lifting the extension to my arms length and hoping any sideways | > inertia does not overpower me! (I should have bought a rope & | > pulley version. Ah the love of DIY! | | Aftere reading the above, I would seriously suggest that you leave the | bargeboards in place, and approach a local scaffold company to erect a | modular scaffold system (not tube) to do this part of the job. | | I'm not sure of the cost but I believe it would probably be far less than | £200 for erection and dismantling and around a week or two's use - ball park | figures now, but when I was dealing with these, the cost was around £100 for | a pine-end and two weeks hire with some like £20 week after that. | | | Brian G | | I will consider this option.
thanks,
Beemer