SWMBO's desktop computer uses a Samsung 17" flat screen monitor which is
powered via a smart switch (extension lead where the sockets only turn
on when the master socket is drawing power).
She's been complaining of late that when she turns her computer on each
morning, although the innards are "worbling" (her term!) away, nothing
appears on the monitor for a long time.
My first thoughts were that the smart switch was duff - but no. I
checked this morning, and other things connected to it - speakers, etc.
- were on, and the monitor supply lead was definitely live. But the
monitor's power light wasn't on, and the screen was blank.
*Then*, probably 10 minutes later, the thing sprang into life. This has
apparently been happening every day for a while.
Anyone ever come across anything like this. I can only assume that some
component or other in the (internal) power supply is on the blink and
needs to "warm up" for a long time before it does anything. Any ideas?
What happens if the monitor's just plugged into a normal power lead and
switched on? Does it come on immediately-ish or 10min later?
I idly wonder what the standby current of the monitor is, anyway...?
I did try a different power lead connected directly into a wall socket
this morning. The monitor certainly didn't come on immediately, but I
didn't wait 10 minutes - I plugged its normal lead back in after
checking that it was supplying 240 volts. I then went and had breakfast,
and when I came back the monitor was on!
Probably not that much. Keeping it powered all the time *may* be an option.
Indeed. I left the monitor on standby last night - connected to a wall
socket rather than the smart switch, so that its power didn't go off
when the computer shut down. [In this state, with power on but no video
signal, the green power light flashes rather than being solid.]
This morning, when we turned the computer on, the monitor came to life
immediately. So the monitor's power supply's cold start arrangement has
to be prime suspect.
We'll probably live with it until it dies completely. It doesn't owe us
a lot - it's over 14 years old. I don't really fancy trying to mend it
myself, and the cost of paying someone to fix it would probably approach
the cost of a new one.
[I found out its age by checking my financial system for evidence of the
purchase, and was horrified to find that back in 2001 it cost us nearly
600 quid for a 17" 4:3 monitor! By comparison, I have recently bought a
24" widescreen monitor for only just over £100.]
No, if it had been that, it would have worked when I first connected it
to a wall socket rather than the smart switch yesterday. It didn't! I
used two separate power leads (one at a time!) one connected to the
smart switch and the other to a wall socket. I measured the voltage of
both with my digital multi-meter - and they both the same (~238v IIRC).
<snip> >I don't really fancy trying to mend it
OOI, have you ever done any PCB type soldering? Would you *like* to
carry on using it by fixing it yourself? (If you could wave a magic
wand etc (and this is a diy n/g after all))? ;-)
Depending on who that 'person' was of course?
See, there are people out there that actually have such skills that
mean that sort of job is really bread_and_butter to them and given the
right caps 'in stock' I'm sure that there are some here who would do
the job in a few minutes and for a cuppa. ;-)
I've done quite a few now, TV's and monitors and not including those
with external PSUs.
Typical process. Half a dozen screws and possibly some clips round the
outside (popped open by a strong thumbnail) and the back comes off.
Often the PSU is a small stand-alone module and it would be fairly
easy to spot if the caps by the bulging or even split ends.
Then it's 'just' (easy for me to say I know, with my 40+ years
experience as a electronics / field support 'tech' and desoldering
station) a matter of getting under the board , desoldering the caps
(often one_at_a_time to avoid confusion, marking the new ones as you
go) and soldering the new ones in.
Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly, as it says in the Haynes
It probably took me longer to type than it would take to do. ;-)
And assuming that is the problem, it should be good for a good few
So, lets say it works and you have just saved say 60+ quid on a new
one. Now you have done the one, you might / should also be able to do
the next and so on, potentially saving 'lots'.
Not suggesting *you* should, just suggesting it can be easy,
moneysaving and satisfying and in many cases you have little to lose.
(You do need to be careful and YMMV of course).
Cheers, T i m
Thanks for the encouragement. I *might* have a go when I run out of
better things to do. Meanwhile, I've replaced it with a 19" 4:3 monitor
which I "retired" when I bought a wide-screen monitor for my computer.
It's actually newer than the problem one, and slightly larger and - in
my opinion - has a much better picture. I'm hoping that SWMBO will agree
when she sees it!
Is that all?
I remember, as a student in the very late '80s, pricing up a PC - an
Elonex 386SX - to no great spec, even at the time... Not going to happen
under a grand and a half.
The utter jaw-dropping value a year or so later of an HP Deskjet (Colour?
Don't be daft!) suddenly being under £500...
Indeed. It was a 'private sale' new, unused PC, hence the price, which
had to be cash. Perhaps I should have asked more questions but given
that I was in no position to buy a brand new PC from a shop, didn't.
Needless to say it is still in the loft, complete with original boxes,
I think I paid (only) £360 for my HPDJ500c when the RRP was also
around £500. Handy knowing someone who worked at HP. ;-)
Now a cheapo inkjet printer is often cheaper than it's replacement
I found the receipts for my first VGA card, Adaptec (ISA) SCSI
controller and 80Mb SCSI hard drive the other day <gulp>.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. Is it 'sad' when you know (or knew) what bus (8/16b ISA, ISA/LB
EISA, MCA or PCI etc) is used on an Adaptec controller from it's
The power saving socket is probebly a red hearing, you need to plug
the monitor directly into the mains so there is no doubt.
Assuming it is the monitor itself that is faulty, then yes, it's a
very common scenario with switch mode power supplies, typically caused
by the failure of a small startup electrolytic capacitor with a value
of about 10uF. Also replace any electrolytics with bulging tops.
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