Seems kaput. Any suggestions before I junk it? Otherwise it works fine.
If I need to replace it what do you think? Buy another monitor? Buy another Desktop and monitor (my XP ststem is about 10 years old - hate to buy it another monitor)? Buy a laptop? Can't really afford any of these options but still - got to get on Usenet!
TIA
0 yrs old? WTF...you don't say it's flat panel or tube? You can get a tube-type for free or a flat panel used for 10-$20 depending on size.
Most likely a capacitor or two went bad. The indicator lights usually work off the low voltage power supply of the computer and not directly off the
120 volts that is switched.Look on Craigs list on the computer or the Facebook sales areas for an inexpensive monitor. Sometimes the computer repair shops will have some used ones for less than $ 50.
*0*? Then, why aren't you talking to the manufacturer/retailer about a warranty repair/replace? I.e., did you, perhaps, mean "10"? [Ive not researched the actual model you cite]
Remove UPS from the issue. It may have a bad outlet, etc.
With *just* the (modular?) power cord, plug it into a known good (i.e., someplace where the plug fits SNUGLY into the receptacle AND you know the receptacle delivers power -- test with a desk lamp).
Put something heavy on the power cord where it finds its way to the floor (or some other flat surface) -- the point being to ensure any motion on the other end of the cord doesn't transfer (wiggle) to the plug's connection.
Now, try wiggling the other end of the (modular?) cord where it mates to the monitor. You may have to alternate pressing the power button with wiggling -- else the power indicator may not illuminate.
If this NEVER works (manages to light the indicator), try replacing the cord with another and repeat.
If it SOMETIMES works, try replacing the cord and repeat. If it still is flakey, you could have a broken connection inside the monitor (the power INLET is usually connected to the power SUPPLY inside the monitor via discrete wires -- not common for one of those to fail).
If it ALWAYS works, then look to the problem being at the other end (wall socket *or* an "open" in the "plug").
If the device has an EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY (i.e., a "brick"), then this becomes a significant cause of failures. Unfortunately, unless you have a similar power supply on hand (same voltage -- often
12VDC and not lesser current/power capability PLUS the same polarity and dimensions for the connector that mates with the monitor itself), you can't play the mix-and-match troubleshooting game.If you have a DMM, you can probe the connector leaving the brick to see if there is ANY voltage present. And, if so, if it is the nameplate voltage. (Does the brick have its own power indicator light?? Is *that* lit -- even if the monitor isn't?)
There's no guarantee that the correct voltage "open circuit" (i.e., without the monitor connected as a "load") will continue once the monitor is attached. And, no guarantee that the waveform from the brick is "DC" and not just something that makes the DMM
*think* it's DC.I make a hobby out of rescuing "defective" LCD monitors. They aren't designed as "durable" equipment.
I'll wager that you've got a bad "brick" (if your power supply is external, in that form), a bad "power supply" (internal to the monitor) or a bad inverter board (a SECOND power supply that lights the "backlight" fluorescent lamps IN the monitor) -- that is "shorting" the power supply and causing it to go into shutdown mode (safety).
The brick is an easy replacement (assuming power cord is not issue). A bad power supply or inverter requires surgery.
The inverter can be evaluated (as possible cause) if you open the case and unplug it. In most cases, the controller board will gladly try to operate with a missing inverter board. The controller board is responsible for lighting the power indicator!
If this works, you would be able to see the contents of the display if you shine a light INTO the display while it is running (to compensate for the lack of backlight due to disconnected inverter). It really helps to know what you THINK is being displayed so you can locate areas of the display where you would expect to encounter "detail"; large black, white, green, etc. areas will all appear "black-ish" with this approach. OTOH, a picture of your dog (wallpaper?) would still be recognizable, if you knew where to look for it.
Here, used LCD monitors (modest size) are $10.
I'm not fond of laptops -- I have 7 (or 8?) and rarely use any of them; one is acting as a portable DVD player, currently. Their problem is repair is essentially impossible for most folks. Hiring out for a repair is often as expensive as replacing. Keyboards are smaller, displays smaller, no expansion options, disks are slower (unless you opt for an SSD), etc.
OTOH, if you want portable *or* want to have different machines for different purposes (applications -- e.g., I use a laptop when I am "writing prose", no illustrations, etc.), then their small size can be a win.
What you need to consider is your other investment(s) in the current machine. Any software that you want to salvage -- without having to buy a new license? How much time do you want to spend reinstalling the software? Are your licenses portable to a new machine -- or, node-locked to *that* machine? Any peripherals that probably won't be supported if you move to a newer OS? Budget? How much you get a thrill from "new", etc.
I concur with the others that older vga monitors may be had for under $10 a ll the time today. Try your local goodwill or any large second-hand, thrift store.
FWIW, in early 2006 I had had it with how quickly the computers I had bough t from Compaq, Gateway, and HP died. I researched basic computer components (mobo, cpu, case, power supply, RAM), talked to a guy at a local mom-and-p op computer store, bought major parts from him, bought a copy of Windows XP , and put together my own computer. The computer became unstable in 2011, a nd I quickly deduced that the mobo was the problem (probably a capacitor or some other heat sensitive electronic component). I bought a new, exact rep lacement from eBay for $40 or so. This fixed the instability. Recently the mobo again started showing problems. I just bought a third replacement mobo from eBay.
I grant that with more effort, I could locate the bad capacitor or whatever is causing the mobo to die after about five years.
I have become disgusted with the downloads from the internet that were mess ing up my desktop computer and the mighty monopoly that is Windows and the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation (for-profit branch). A year ago I bought an inexpensive Samsung Chromebook. I still do the bulk of my word processin g, spreadsheet, and now GNU Octave (for control systems experiments) on my old 2006 workhorse. I see the Chromebook as my "television" section of my c omputer activity.
I think word processing, spreadsheet, and Windows software is no better tha n it was 25 years ago. I was disgusted with how often I had to buy crap wit h new bells and whistles that made life not easier, but more difficult. My car breaks down less often than my computer.
The only question is when the electronic parts of my 2006 workhorse can no longer be replaced. E.g. my Windows XP is all on CD now. I am a little lear y about putting it on a memory stick and getting a mobo design with, say, a ll solid state drive (SDD, so no more IDE cable connectors and so on; still researching).
Good to see that these topics come up here. I have not found a computer do- it-yourself forum that I really like.
He told us the model number.
Its probably a bad electrolytic cap in the power supply.
Easy repair for an electronics tech.
Mark
I concur with the others that older vga monitors may be had for under $10 a ll the time today. Try your local computer repair shops, Goodwill or any la rge second-hand, thrift store.
FWIW, in early 2006 I had had it with how quickly the computers I had bough t from Compaq, Gateway, and HP died and updating Windows. I researched basi c computer components (mobo, cpu, case, power supply, hard drive, RAM, conn ectors), talked to a guy at a local mom-and-pop computer store, bought majo r parts from him, bought a copy of Windows XP, and put together my own comp uter. The computer became unstable in 2011, and I quickly deduced that the mobo was the problem (probably a capacitor or some other heat sensitive ele ctronic component). I bought a new, exact replacement from eBay for $40 or so. This fixed the instability. Recently the mobo again started showing pro blems. I just bought a third replacement mobo from eBay.
I grant that with more effort, I could locate the bad capacitor or whatever is causing the mobo to die after about five years.
Last year I likewise decided "enough" with all the downloads from the inter net and the Windows changes. They were messing up my desktop computer's ope ration. I think word processing, spreadsheet, and Windows software is no be tter than it was 25 years ago. I was tired of feeding the mighty monopoly t hat is Windows and the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation (for-profit branch ). My car breaks down less often than my computer. A year ago I bought an i nexpensive Samsung Chromebook. I still do the bulk of my word processing, s preadsheet, and now GNU Octave (for control systems experiments) on my old
2006 workhorse. I see the Chromebook as the "television" section of my comp uter activity.I have found that virus protection does more damage than good and use none. I re-load my Windows XP software about once every two years.
The question to me now is when the electronic parts of my 2006 workhorse ca n no longer be replaced. E.g. my Windows XP is all on CD now. I am a little leary about putting it on a memory stick and getting a mobo design with, s ay, all solid state drive (SDD, so no more IDE cable connectors and so on; still researching).
Good to see that these topics come up here. I have not found a computer do- it-yourself forum that I really like.
Or in the inverter.
Or, shorted FETs in the inverter.
For really old units, sometimes the fluorescent tubes go bad (though they usually turn pink-ish before giving up the ghost).
Most of these repairs are limited by how long it takes to disassemble the thing -- without breaking lots of little hidden plastic latches. And, finding a place to set it (in pieces) while you troubleshoot. And, *store* it while you wait for the particular parts that you may have to order/pick up (unless you do this regularly or for a living).
You can find LCD monitors at the same price point. Most folks now prefer larger/widescreen monitors (Heaven forbid they get "stuck" with some old, 4:3 20" monitor! :> )
Sounds like you've found a design defect. :>
I'd be more concerned that you were just buying Yet Another With The Same Problem. With a little effort, you can examine the components (caps) on the board to see if any show signs of rupture. You can also look at brand names to predict whether or not you will have a problem down the road!
And, don't forget to look inside the power supply! Often a bad cap in a power supply will make the system unreliable -- in unpredictable ways.
Two weeks ago, I had this problem with a neighbor's computer. A year ago, the same problem with *her* neighbor's computer.
You can configure your machine to NOT allow any changes. So, rebooting essentially gives you the same "original" copy of everything that you had. To save things that you *do* want to save (URL's, downloads, email, etc.) you create an unprotected partition, a second drive just for that purpose, *or* use a thumb drive.
Most of my machines use IDE optical drives. These are turning into unobtanium. So, I've started stockpiling CD/DVD drive "discards".
Yes. My mess-up.
I am not sure if you are kidding around here. :) I should have clarified th at the mobo's have lasted five years each. From general reading, I think th is is about par for the course. I know there's one bulgy-looking capacitor on the current, soon-to-be-replaced mobo (still working okay but not perfec tly) in my desktop computer. I have read many folks replace caps on their m obos. I may try to tinker with it, for my own education. I have an excellen t Craftsman digital multi-meter. ;) Also because searching eBay recently fo r an identical replacement mobo turned up little this time compared to 2011 . (The new, replacement mobo I bought the other day cost me only $22.) I ei ther have to switch to another make and model of mobo, or plan on repairing mobo's myself.
I'm on it, slowly but surely. I do not like messing with my computer the wa y I like working on my Honda or, less often, electro-mechanical projects ar ound the house.
If the new mobo does not fix the instability, I will check the now 10-year- old power supply next. :)
I hear you. I hesitate to give my computer maintenance more time than I do. I have so many interests, electro-mechanical wise and other. It's been a y ear with my desktop not connected to the internet, using my Chromebook for the internet instead. I feel it's been a lot less aggravation as a result.
Thank you for this and all the tips!
Just an FYI. A friend's email/news client got stuck in a loop, recently, sending me the same message every few minutes for a few hours! If you didn't notice it...
Seeing the same problem repeat itself is usually an indication of a weakness in a design. Of course, all designs have to have *some* achilles heel...
A lot depends on how much use it gets, how hot it gets, how good the power supply is, etc. Capacitors are filters: they smooth out voltage surges by storing "charge" (electricity) "locally" so whatever is using that electricity doesn't have to "go all the way back to the power supply" for more.
But, they degrade with temperature -- the hotter they operate, the shorter the lifespan. They tend to be located near things that use lots of power -- like the CPU chip. Things that use lots of power produce lots of HEAT!
They are typically rated for 85C or 105C (degrees) operation. If the caps that are dying are 85C, someone saved a few pennies KNOWING they would be failing!
You can also purchase them rated for different lifespans *at* those temperatures: 2000hrs, 4000hrs, 5000hrs, etc. Machines designed to run continuously (servers) will tend for the higher temperature AND longer life components.
[These things are really only important if you ever decide to have a board "re-capped"; the labor is the same for 2000hr vs. 5000hr so the extra *component* costs can easily be insignificant -- and, save you another repair down the road]In general, its not worth the effort. It is typically hard to "unsolder" components -- not only do you have to get the component out but you also have to ensure the "holes" that it connects to the board are clear of any residual solder.
As these are used in places (in the circuit) where power demand tends to be high, there tends to be a lot of "foil" on the circuit board in these areas to which they connect. More foil is like "bigger wires"; better suited to carrying lots of power.
But, more foil means more metal to suck heat from your soldering iron! So, if your iron is too small, you spend forever trying to get the solder around the capacitor's leads to melt -- and, end up heating up a lot of other stuff, unnecessarily.
[I.e., I typically won't do this on any of my machines -- unless it is a really "precious" machine. OTOH, I *will* do it for friends' machines (to save them the cost of a new machine)]If your purchases are used, look at the boards carefully before putting them into service.
Computer should be a tool. You shouldn't be a slave to a tool. Do you see carpenters fussing over their hammers??
Power supply is bad environment for caps. The currents are high, and the temperatures are high as well. Finally, they tend to be as small as possible so the "hot stuff" ends up "nearby" every component!
My livelihood depends on my computers. And *I* don't want to spend any more time keeping them running than I absolutely have to!
Only one machine talks to the outside world, here. The others are completely isolated -- so, no "security risks" and, thus, no need for the endless line of "security updates".
Man after my own heart! :>
We keep a laptop for eCommerce. But, it is used for NOTHING else (no email, no web surfing, etc.) When I get around to it, I will rebuild it to do the "no changes" trick. It's only a minor inconvenience and easy to accept, given the little use we put it to [sic].
We have another that is used to prepare taxes. When we're done with that, I wipe the disk clean and reinstall the "image" of the original disk (no vestigal financial data).
IMO, this is a good way to use laptops.
Driverless cars are on the horizon, some one is still driving model T? I'd take USB stick over CD. CD is not such a permanent storage medium. One scratch, Oops! Nowadays you shoyld be running some mobo which is capable of UEFI boot!!!!
Too bad Microsoft dont think this way! According to them, we need to keep upgrading, (for no real reason), which often means buying a new computer, reinstalling all the programs, (and some no longer will work), re-learning the new operating system, and all upgraded or new programs, and finally about the time you get all of that completed, it's time ot begin all over again with the latest bloated crap from MS.
I was perfectly happy using Windows 98 to operate my "tool". I finally bit the bullet and went to Windows XP. I was prefectly happy with that too. (And still am, because that's as far as I am willing to upgrade). But now MS stopped supporting XP.
Windows XP, Windows 98, and even MS-Dos served me well, and were useful tools. I still use all three of them. Maybe these are like comparing a hand saw and an old basic circular saw to a modern push button saw with hundreds of bells and whistles, but those OLD "TOOLS"work just fine and make me productive. Give me one of these new fangled saws, and I'll spend the next month reading the manual and wasting a lot of lumber. It's the same with computers. I know exactly how to use my old computers. I have no need for more bells and whistles or more power or anything else, nor am I willing to waste the next year trying to relearn it. I already know I'd stick the new computer in the closet and go back to my old one after a few days, and lots of cus words.
MS can "offer" upgrades, and that is fine, but FORCING us to upgrade is WRONG!
I'm sure someone will reply to this by telling me to switch over to Linux. Dont bother..... I tried it and briefly played with it. I hated it. It's far worse than relearning an upgrade to a MS operating system. Not to mention lacking any real support, and also not able to run all the programs i already know, so I'd have to relearn everything. On top of that, Linux is doing the same thing as MS. Constant bloated upgrades!
Several years ago, I managed to install a 5 year old version of one of the Linux distros. I had it on a CD which someone gave me, so I installed it on a spare computer and for the first time ever, I got Linux to install and work without a glitch. But although it was installed, I found little usefulness from it. I went on an online web forum and asked some questions. I was nearly decapitated with remarks about using an outdated version, almost as if "HOW DARE YOU". I downloaded the newest version of that same distro, it would not install. I went back to that forum, and was given info that I did not understand at all. That lead to a couple dozen people telling me to use a different distro because the one I had was junk. So, I left there with suggestions for instaling 20 or more different distros, and no help whatsoever with my original questions..... I tossed that CD in the garbage and turned that spare computer into my file storage computer.
Linux is like having a tool in my toolbox, which does nothing but take up space. I'll never use it, because it serves no purpose!
If you can't afford a driverless car *or* prefer to drive yourself, then there's a market for model T's.
Nor are FLASH devices! I've had more thumb drives fail than hard disks! And I've been using hard disks far longer!
I archive to optical media (CD/DVD/WORM), tape and hard disk -- as I can't trust *any* of these, long term (I have archives that go back more than 30 years). Also have to maintain *machines* that have the ability to access those media!
The nature and direction of the scratch play an important part in how much (irrecoverable) damage it does.
I've had thumb drives "suddenly" decide that they were "read only" devices -- regardless of which machine it was plugged into. I guess that's marginally better than becoming WRITE only! :> But, just marginally better. As i wanted to be able to write to it, it was essentially defective (though I could recover everything that was presently stored on it)
You have a few swelled capacitors on the circuit board. You can replace them if you are handy and cheap.
Used monitors are generally available for about $25 - or even free (on freecycle or wherever)
Replacing the system with something newer sure wouldn't hurt if you have a few spare sheckles. Off lease machines with core 2 duo and windows 7 go for about $100 around here. Core I3 about $149. That's for a business class machine that sold new for about $600 or more.
Better than 90% of failures in the '80s to early 2000's were due to counterfeit electrolyte in the capacitore. Look for caps with "domed heads" - they should be concave, not convex. Sometimes the convex tops will also have a crusty scum on the top (dried leaked selectrolyte)
They most likely had the defective capacitors that swamped the chinese (and even low end japanese) electronic world in the late 80s or early nineties (and even into the early 2000s)
I've had some last over 15 years. Some over 20. The ones build while the counterfiet electrolyte was used in the capacitors were doing GOOD to last 5 years without some performance degradation from the bad caps.
The new boards with "solid" caps should last 20 years.(or more) - outliving 4 or 5 power supplies.
Memory sticks fail too.
I had monitor die and I liked it very much. It took me a few hours to get it open without breaking plastic tabs and stuff. I found no blown fuse, no burned buldged or noticably damaged parts. I checked into replacing all the caps around the power supply. Would have cost me around $15 with shipping for them. I know how to solder but it can be a real pain on these newer boards.
So, I could have spent $15, hours of work, reassemble it, and found it still did not work. No thanks, I'm not into gambling!
I bought an identical used monitor on Ebay for $24 with free shipping. Nine dollars more but guaranteed to work or I get a refund. It works fine! (I did save the old one in a box, just in case I need to replace an obvious bad part).
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.