Nest Heat Link

Sep 15, 2025 Last reply: 10 months ago 11 Replies

I bought a house and while it's being renovated, thought I'd check the heating. It has a combi boiler connected to what I have discovered is a Nest Heat Link, 3rd generation. It has three wires connected to it from the boiler, one of which is earth.



AIUI, there should be some sort of thermostat with it, but there ain't.



What to do? I don't want anything complicated or expensive, I don't want to turn the heating on from Timbuktu or anything like that. The Heat Link thing has a micro USB socket, what's that for? Can I get a cheap compatible thermostat or should I just replace it with a cheap programmable timer and a simple wireless thermostat?


Wiring diagrams:

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It looks like the Heat Link is the bridge from the Nest hub's wireless comms to traditional central heating wiring. The Micro USB is likely for programming. The last people took the Nest Hub with them so the Heat Link is forever waiting for a wireless signal that isn't there.

From eg p20, it looks like it's basically a relay contact with call for heat

- ie live in wire from boiler, switched live out to boiler, earth.

If that's the case you could potentially replace it with a basic wall thermostat, which would give you temperature control and the ability to turn it off completely. If you wanted time controls you'd need a programmer plus a thermostat in series.

I'd try putting a switch between live and switched live pins and see if the boiler fires the heating. If so you can replace it with a thermostat.

Theo

If you need a timer and a thermostat, better to get a programmable thermostat (about the same total price) which will let you set different temperatures at different times of day/week.

Thanks, that explains a lot, and the diagram shows that my green/yellow wire isn't earth after all, it's call-for-heat. The use of self-adhesive trunking, unstuck and poorly cut, shows that this was installed by someone less than competent. It does make me wonder about the rest of the house wiring, I've already replaced bits of unstuck plastic trunking elsewhere.

It's highly dubious (though for some reason not outright forbidden) to re-use green/yellow wire for a switched live like that, at least it should have been overmarked with brown (or red).

That surprises me, I would have thought it was strictly forbidden. I'll replace it anyway.

In my experience with self adhesive trunking never sticks for a long period I always add a few screws/washers.

>

This is the type of cable you need. It has four cores L & N feed with another core for switched L and Earth.

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It is a bit pricey you might find someone who might sell it off a roll so you can specify length and probably get it cheaper. I can still remember the days B&Q sold lengths off the roll but it all is prepackaged now and more expensive to boot.

Screwfix £17 for 5m (£31 for a 25m roll)

For a boiler/pump etc. you may get away with 0.75mm2 wire (6A, 1300W) 4 core. £8.40 for 10m @ screwfix)

TLC approx £1.30/m (incl VAT) for 1mm2 4 core

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In the end when wiring up my CH circuits I had plenty of T and E so used a couple of those to get 4 wires plus earth. When I ran out of te cabpe that connected the intermediate lighting circuits together.

+1 When I wired up my CH I too doubled up on 3 core where 4 core would have used 1 less wire. Not much point spending out on 4 core when I had half a reel of the other laying around from previous jobs.

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