It seems they often have enough to suck the people in, but not enough to
actually be useful!
They are especially good for cutting tiles that are already stuck to a
wall. There are much better ways of cutting tiles prior to fitting.
So jobs like freeing broken tiles, or cutting out sections for
electrical boxes, or shower valves etc they are ideal for.
Yes, and yes.
Several. I find they work far more effectively than the traditional
delta sanders. The paper seems to last longer. The nature of the
oscillating action and the curve of the sander head means you can sand
right up to an obstruction or edge without it hammering or vibrating
Its a job I use mine for frequently. With a plunge cut blade, its easy
to make a cut with very fine kerf and a bevel on the edge. So you can
make cuts where it is easy to hide the cut later by sliding the board up
a mm. Using a bevel means that with care you can do cuts not over a
joist and still have a way of making a strong repair later without
needing too much in the way of elaborate support under the board.
There is a corder blue bosch as well now. Also if you only want specific
tools, then you can have a bare Fein multimaster for less than the cost
of the Bosch kits.
The difficult part of these questions to answer is that most folks who
have one or other of the tools don't have much or any experience with
other brands. This can make comparisons rather tricky. Reports seem to
suggest that the rigidity and vibration control improves as you go more
up market, but most of them can achieve much the same basic
functionality. Some of the lower end ones have more restrictive blade
positioning options - allowing straight up, and 90 degrees left and
right, but not the more handy in between angles.
These tools don't really need that much power in the sense of output
cutting power, so its unlikely to make much difference. The cordless
ones however do tend to suffer from very short battery life.
I take it you have read:
I've just found this page; according to the photo, the green Bosch has
an input of 180W but an output of only 74W:
The reviewer claims the Aldi is more powerful because it is rated 300w
but I don't think he has appreciated this is the input, rather than
the output, power.
Indeed - mechanical output powers are rarely stated, and are typically
quite a bit down on the electrical input (much of which will be lost as
heat, and vibration etc).
One last question, looking at the blades available for the Bosch, such
as from Axminster's web site, what is the difference between a
Japanese plunge cut blade and the "non-Japanese" plunge cut blade? Is
it made from a harder type or metal or is the angle of the blade
different or something else all together?
Probably down to the tooth profile. Japanese wood saws typically have a
different tooth profile to what we think of as a normal wood saw (aside
from cutting on the pull rather than the push stroke). The HSS/bimetal
ones are designed for plastics and non ferrous metals as well as wood,
and are different again.
Japanese profile teeth:
I don't know how long the Aldi page will remain for but it is:
The Bosches, blue and green, can be found here (and at any other good
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