They aren't safer or more dangerous, they're precisely the same. Either allows you to stick your finger in an empty one and shock it. Both keep the bulb in quite firmly. The screw ones might sometimes work loose, but so what, the bulb just switches off. But.... bayonets tend to crumble with the pressure and heat and eventually they can fall out. I've actually seen a bulb fall off the fitting with nothing to have made it do so.
IKEA furniture often has lights in it.
That didn't answer my question...
What country is here?
I forgot to include various types of light fixtures that don't screw into a socket, but, plug into them instead. Flourescent tubes, some LEDs, etc. Safer how?
It's not harder to follow most of the time, even if you don't have an electrical schematic handy to view. Usually, the higher capacity wires are a little thicker than the others and tend to stick out like a sore thumb if you locate where they connect.
You don't just grab the plug and pull it straight towards you? Are you disconnecting it while the vacuum is running?
That's actually not the fuses primary job...It's primary job is to cut power in the event of a short circuit. Overheating can take a little longer to kill the fuse. And, if it's done in small amounts over time without reaching the fuse tolerance, you can wear out the device and have the issue you did without blowing the fuse.
You just described a radial circuit, but with slightly different wiring capacity...it's radial as long as it's not going back to your fusebox from the last outlet/receptacle or socket in you case, and ring if it does go back to the same breaker/fuse you originated from.
I'm not sure based on what you said where the higher amp capacity wire would come into play. Are you suggesting that the 30A wire be the feed to the circuit and the circuit itself use the wire that's matched to the breaker or fuse in the fusebox, instead? Otherwise, why not just use the matching amperage wire capacity to the fusebox?
I don't know about best, because then all the sockets would be sharing the same breaker or fuse. If one room blows a fuse or trips a breaker, all rooms go dead. Also, it has other disadvantages. Everything in the house is sharing the same line. Heavier loads that startup can cause voltage spikes and dips for the rest of the devices sharing the circuit. Harmonics would likely be an issue as well, not to mention, the ground and neutral issues.
I didn't say two phase, I said dual phase. Which isn't a commonly used term to describe it, as far as I know. It's single phase, or split phase. Antiphase doesn't actually apply in this case because the 120volt legs are not 180 degrees off of each other. Not when supplied by a single transformer, anyhow. It's a transformer with multiple taps, is all.
No, it's not anti phase.
A transformer supplying a three-wire distribution system has a single-phase input (primary) winding. The output (secondary) winding is center-tapped and the center tap connected to a grounded neutral.
either end to center has half the voltage of end-to-end. Since the two phasors do not define a unique direction of rotation for a revolving magnetic field, a split single-phase is not a two-phase system.
Our 120volt circuits can handle a 1500watt power sucker tied into them all day long. You can go upto 1875 watts without exceeding the capacity of a 20amp circuit. If you need more juice, you opt for a
240volt circuit with the proper wiring and breaker to support the load you're needing. 5kw or more is no problem.
Are you THICK in the head? Reviving a two weeks old thread created by the filthiest troll these groups have seen?
Yes, it did! It's the kind of answer idiots get from idiots!
On Tue, 29 Aug 2017 03:51:50 -0000 (UTC), Diesel wrote:
The clue is in the NG name.
Because the metal socket is or should be earthed, and the metal base of the bulb is not used for live or return.
But you can't get 3kW at 120V, thus making it hard to boil a kettle.
In my experience the hot/cold cycle screws them further in so you cannot easily remove them from the socket. Smashing the glass and gripping the remaining metal screw in bit with pliers is a lot more dangerous than removing a bayonet fitted bulb.
20 amps is asking for a fire.
On Tue, 29 Aug 2017 11:40:24 +0100, alan_m wrot= e:
Odd, I've never had one get jammed apart from the one which caught fire = (a dodgy CFL). The others either stay put, or start flickering and I ha= ve to tighten them again. If the bulb is below the socket, gravity is p= ulling it down, so the hot/cold cycle should move it out of the socket, = not in.
-- =
Riots in Birmingham last month caused over =A31 million worth of improve= ments.
The alt.home.repair group contains more than just Americans, you could have been a Canadian for example.
Return is the same potential as ground anyway, so unless you wired it backwards....
It's even easier when you only have live and neutral to trace.
I mean when I'm hoovering and pull it too far, or the flex gets caught or knotted up.
No. Although I did that once then got a shock from the momentum of the motor when I touched the plug prongs.
When you buy a power strip, it has a 13A fuse built into it, this is so you don't overload it. If the fuse lasts longer than the strip, then one of them isn't fit for purpose.
My ring main has a 30A fuse, this means if I overload it, it will blow.
I thought you were describing what the UK had decades ago, with a single wire from a single fuse in the fusebox, running to a single outlet. One wire for every single outlet.
With a ring circuit, we use 15A wire, as each side only takes half the current. Until one gets disconnected, them it overloads. If it was changed to be a single line, we'd have to use proper 30A wire.
The main fuse virtually never goes in the UK, because we have plug fuses.
That still happens even if they aren't on the same line, as they all connect together at the fusebox. For example turning on a large motor like a hoover or a bench saw does make the lights dim slightly (or it did with incandescents), even though they're on completely seperate circuits.
Too much snippage, can't remember why I wrote that there.
Which to me means the same thing. A car with a dual something has two of them.
Well they are 180 degrees out aren't they? Three phase is 120 degrees out.
That doesn't make sense. Why would you be putting a physical load on the alternator 90 degrees apart, with a big gap of 270 degrees after that? I thought one of the main points of phases was the alternator was evenly mechanically loaded, so you put the phases evenly round the circle.
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