Manufacturers are always bundling sets of bits with tools as a way of making it look like your getting something for nothing whilst actually nudging the price up. You'll soon find you've got half a dozen 5.5mm masonary bits that you never use because you've got an SDS and two dozen PZ2 bits that are all made of monkey metal :-)
I can't understand 'sets' of masonry bits. 90% of the time I use a 6mm, the odd occassion 8mm for larger fixings. I also carry a 5mm for small plugs & multi montes. Typical set contains something like 2 x 4.5mm, 3 x 5.5mm, 2 x
6mm, 2 x 6.5mm, 2 x 7mm, 2 x 8mm so I would only use 4 of the 13 included.
Sometimes I use the very small 2mm one too. If I need to attach something with several pre-drilled holes to a wall such as a coat hanger rail it makes a good bradawl to mark the holes needed in a wall so they match up exactly with the holes in the thing needing attaching. It is better than just marking the wall as the larger 5 or 6mm masonry bit keys into the tiny hole made by the 2mm bit better than just a mark - so no wander.
It's called marketing, and makes it look to the average punter that they are getting something really good. Hence the sets of 115 assorted drills with Bosch label.
They might just as well put in a Cream Egg. The thought of either makes me queasy.
Thanks for reminding me what I can get from the chippy tomorrow!
Owain
You can turn them with less torque since there is no worm thread, how much they bite is controlled by the force you apply. So with a weedy drill you can still cut a big hole with a spade if you take it slow and easy.
The other advantages are they are cheap, and generally easy to cut down to shorter lengths should you need to (or extend to longer ones with an extension bar).
Spade bits go blunt immediately. Augers are by far the best.
A change from the deep fried Mars bars I suppose
We had a power cut for about seven hours yesterday, so while on a forage to get some logs for the fire I popped up to the chippy to get snack to keep the troops going. There pride of place (replacing the battered Mars bar ad), was an "Easter special" battered cream egg!
I agree augers are better, however there are some things they don't do so well. Not had a problem with them going blunt in ordinary timber however. Particle board knocks the edge off them fairly quickly though.
Thats Essex for you :-)
Only in Essex!
My Makita 12V angle drill has arrived so some feedback. Quite happy with a
20mm spade because as you say you can control the pressure. Not happy with a 25mm auger. Less control over the pressure because of the lead screw. Unlike my drill/driver this model has a overload cut-out which operates when about 20mm into the test piece because of surface friction. Can't find my 25mm spade. If I've thrown it out that was silly. I'd still go for an auger with a sufficiently powerful drill. Quicker and less mess.Jim A
So, the 12v not recommended then.
I didn't say that. For general driving and drilling its all that's needed, more compact and lighter. I like it. But not a patch on a 18V Lidl special for heavy duty work (while the batteries remain in good nick). Wouldn't be surprised if the 12V drill/driver now has an overload. I know it's needed.
Jim A
Lidl sell and 18v angle drill? How much? I have never seen one in there.
no, a normal drill/driver, not an angle drill.
Jim A
Lidl sells cauliflowers.
If you want something that may work reasonably with a spade bit, then it can be done with a 12 or 14.4v Makita.
If you want something that will work with a proper short auger bit, then an 18v Makita on low gear setting will do a proper job of this..
One way to tame the load of an auger is to pre drill a small pilot hole (say 3 - 5mm). That reduces the pull of the worm screw allowing the auger to take a shallower bite. I have an expansive bit that requires this treatment in some cases, because it can require a fearsome amount of torque otherwise.
Do they drill in augers too?
But Matt, Makitas are crap.
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